Bolt on Big Brake Kit For around 300$.
- Thread starter hvyman
- Start date
Yay! I have brakes.
3 issues found.
Issue #1: The aluminum hub rings from Amazon are junk and not machined evenly. The passenger side protruded from the rotor hat maybe 1mm but was tight on the rotor; keeping it from pivoting back and forth on the wheel studs (due to the larger stud hole bore on the rotor). On the driver side, however, the hub ring protruded a good 3mm, keeping the TT wheel from contacting the rotor hat. Also, the rotor could still turn freely since the hub ring was not as snug as on the passenger side. The rotor could move side to side several mm before it would click against a wheel stud and turn the hub. Factor in that the wheel was hitting the hub ring and sitting 3mm away from the rotor hat...let's just say not good. I ground down the hub ring flush with the rotor using a dremel. Problem solved. Will probably end up doing to the passenger side as well one of these days for peace of mind.
Issue #2: I didn't fully seat the brake pad sliders into the calipers and they worked themselves loose on both sides. The pads were pivoting all over the place. Now that the vehicle was on a lift and I had a proper punch and hammer. I smacked those sliders until they were fully seated inside each caliper.
Issue #3: I can only assume the soft pedal was due to air in the system, since the first two issues shouldn't have any affect on pedal feel. I pressure bled the system one last time. I had a clean steady stream of fluid from all bleeders with no visible air bubbles. However, I now have pedal. It is not as firm as I would like it to be, but it is no softer than when I had the factory brakes and hoses. I'll be driving it home later this evening and will report back on brake performance.
3 issues found.
Issue #1: The aluminum hub rings from Amazon are junk and not machined evenly. The passenger side protruded from the rotor hat maybe 1mm but was tight on the rotor; keeping it from pivoting back and forth on the wheel studs (due to the larger stud hole bore on the rotor). On the driver side, however, the hub ring protruded a good 3mm, keeping the TT wheel from contacting the rotor hat. Also, the rotor could still turn freely since the hub ring was not as snug as on the passenger side. The rotor could move side to side several mm before it would click against a wheel stud and turn the hub. Factor in that the wheel was hitting the hub ring and sitting 3mm away from the rotor hat...let's just say not good. I ground down the hub ring flush with the rotor using a dremel. Problem solved. Will probably end up doing to the passenger side as well one of these days for peace of mind.
Issue #2: I didn't fully seat the brake pad sliders into the calipers and they worked themselves loose on both sides. The pads were pivoting all over the place. Now that the vehicle was on a lift and I had a proper punch and hammer. I smacked those sliders until they were fully seated inside each caliper.
Issue #3: I can only assume the soft pedal was due to air in the system, since the first two issues shouldn't have any affect on pedal feel. I pressure bled the system one last time. I had a clean steady stream of fluid from all bleeders with no visible air bubbles. However, I now have pedal. It is not as firm as I would like it to be, but it is no softer than when I had the factory brakes and hoses. I'll be driving it home later this evening and will report back on brake performance.
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Not sure if your pedal feel is this issue but here is what I had happen. I had the original MC on the car and it was leaking a small amount of fluid from where the booster pushes the MC piston. I installed a MC brace to help with the firewall flex. One day the pedal felt soft so I replaced with MC but the issue persisted. I bled the brakes many times, the pedal was hard and I had no air in the lines. After I started the car the pedal would be soft again, it turned out to be the booster. When I had installed the MC brace it put so much pressure on the MC that the leaking fluid pushed it way into the booster. When I pulled the old booster out and turned it upside down, brake fluid pored out of the vacuum port. Might be something to look at.
A failing brake booster?
An interesting proposition, but usually the pedal gets stiffer with a failing booster, not softer.
I haven't condemned the master yet. Not looking forward to introducing more air into the system by replacing the master, as it has been an ordeal to get the pedal to it's current firmness.
An interesting proposition, but usually the pedal gets stiffer with a failing booster, not softer.
I haven't condemned the master yet. Not looking forward to introducing more air into the system by replacing the master, as it has been an ordeal to get the pedal to it's current firmness.
I've had a few friends have bleeding issues. My buddy who I first gave the brakes too if we bled them it make the pedal go to the floor. He ended up driving to work and back. Like 2 miles and after a couple weeks and a bunch of brake boosting it got all of the air out on its out and now is firm.
My buddy dub his car has the evo rears. That one had some air in the rear and front. Can be a pain to get it all out. But once it's out your ok.
As for performance. With the evo rears car stops on a dime. I would say at least 25-40% more braking power and zero fade for 90% of users. It what should have came from the factory.
My buddy dub his car has the evo rears. That one had some air in the rear and front. Can be a pain to get it all out. But once it's out your ok.
As for performance. With the evo rears car stops on a dime. I would say at least 25-40% more braking power and zero fade for 90% of users. It what should have came from the factory.
I finally got around to grinding the front passenger hub ring adapter flush with the rotor hat. Definitely recommend doing this prior to installation as it is very tedious and time consuming with the rotor still on.
Before:
After:
It's hard to tell from the pics, but the ring was ground around 1mm below the rotors surface. You can see where the Dremel got away from me a few times. Luckily, the bit is too soft to mar the iron rotor and hub; just fucked the paint up a bit. Easily remedied if I ever feel the need. Unnoticeable with the wheel on, so at the bottom of my to-do list.
Before:
After:
It's hard to tell from the pics, but the ring was ground around 1mm below the rotors surface. You can see where the Dremel got away from me a few times. Luckily, the bit is too soft to mar the iron rotor and hub; just fucked the paint up a bit. Easily remedied if I ever feel the need. Unnoticeable with the wheel on, so at the bottom of my to-do list.
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Has anybody found out if any of the xxr rims will fit this bbk? I'm in the market for a set of rims and don't want to buy ones that will not fit. Or know of any rims that will definitely fit this kit.
all depends on the face design. the flat mesh wheels wont fit. something like te37s will no problem.
Run enough spacer any wheel will fit the brakes. But then it not fit the car.
For mine it would have taken like. 15mm spacer iirc and that would have pushed the wheel far beyond the fender.
For mine it would have taken like. 15mm spacer iirc and that would have pushed the wheel far beyond the fender.
Huge thanks for the R and D! I was needing a brake job anyway and this works so well! Here's a few pics I snapped and also some of the rears. Thanks again to Hvyman and everyone else who took the time to post the information!
