^^^^^You don't need to laugh at him or be unruly. He may have just not included the hub centering rings in the video by accident. At least he's putting an effort into providing these videos. He also did a fine job in giving everyone they're deserved credit for the research. Take it easy... it is after all called poor man mods, not deep pockets mods. different strokes for different folks.
Bolt on Big Brake Kit For around 300$.
- Thread starter hvyman
- Start date
sorry i was a little harsh but really he should do more research and be positive he knows what hes talking about then before making a how to video.......it wouldn't have cost him any more getting the recommend rotors like everyone else that are 13" have full pad contact and are spaced out right to fit the caliper without grinding. and you can't just use any old bolts for brakes they're always grade 10.9 or grade 8 or higher. being iffy on engine mods is one thing but brakes suspension and steering need to be taken seriously and done right cause a failure can be life or death where as if you do something wrong and blow up your engine you just cry but can walk away. and he was straight wrong about the cobra brakes. i just think if you're going to spend the time to make an informative video take some time to get your facts right!
Am i the only one that can not find these calipers for at/less than $100?
Bought these for $125
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141707008197
Hope theyre right
Bought these for $125
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141707008197
Hope theyre right
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that's the same guy i bought mine off of, same calipers too. He definitely noticed them being bought up more and more recently and upped his price because I noticed they started from ~75 and have climbed to as high as ~150
Those are not the correct calipers. Look back a couple pages.
They have gone up in price because everyone just started buying them up like crazy.
They have gone up in price because everyone just started buying them up like crazy.
Opinions on these rotors/pad combo. This company's advertising on the ad seems to make everything look like good quality.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400923412787?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400923412787?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Slotted and drilled = no.
The rest I have no comment on other than something very cheap is usually just that.
The rest I have no comment on other than something very cheap is usually just that.
whats wrong with slotted AND drilled? or just personal preference.
AND... is anybody finding the EVO brembo rears for a better price than $200 a set?
AND... is anybody finding the EVO brembo rears for a better price than $200 a set?
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I looked into the evo rears, decided I'd wait until next year lol, the rear setup was going to cost me more than the fronts did!
Slotted and drilled are for brake pad material used about 40 years ago. It allowed trapped gases to escape. If your going BBK you should be concerned with maximum effective pad contact area. Slotted and drilled are not good as they reduce contact area and add stress points that shouldn't be there. Aesthetically they look cool. But that's it.
They aren't as effective or safe
They aren't as effective or safe
Just to put this to rest... (The slotted and drilled rotors) someone explain why companies sell these? With present day brake pads, gases are no longer produced... So that argument doesn't work. Heat reduction? Less surface area = less thermal transfer... So that doesn't work.
Only a few very high end manufacturers actually forge the slots and holes into the pad... The rest are machined. That leads to a high potential risk of cracking...
So why do people like SPRacing say they are better and then use the 60's brake pad characteristics to explain why.
Confuses me... Do I have it wrong??
Only a few very high end manufacturers actually forge the slots and holes into the pad... The rest are machined. That leads to a high potential risk of cracking...
So why do people like SPRacing say they are better and then use the 60's brake pad characteristics to explain why.
Confuses me... Do I have it wrong??
Nick Squire;2054188 said:
ya. :/ i havent dropped the money yet for rears simply cause a set of calipers is so high. got to be cause they are from an "EVO".
I just purchase Power Stop Rotors, i have the calipers and just getting the last few things to get it together.
Grandavi;2054189 said:
I have always been under the same impression that slotted > Drilled >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Drilled and Slotted. For the reasons you mentioned. Having them drilled OR Slotted is beneficial for heat and pad dust distribution but having both decreases surface area and strength.
Seems like the general consensus is slotted is slightly better for stopping power/heat distribution but will wear pads faster than drilled but both pretty good options.
And its always annoyed me that it is so difficult to find slotted only options or even drilled only in some applications.
My rear rotors and pads are getting tired but I'm gonna try and stretch em till next year, simply because I'll have the winter to find a good deal/save the extra cash for the evo set up...I mean they are ONLY rear brakes, not like we need em
Anyone have pics of the brake line connected to the Caliper ??
FYI- if anyone interested, i might be looking to sell my calipers with HUB rings.
FYI- if anyone interested, i might be looking to sell my calipers with HUB rings.
GC89;2054223 said:
I personally would only use non-slotted and undrilled on our cars. Slotted have a ridge which reduces pad life and removes (slightly) contact area. Our pads do not need a "gas release" area. Most of the slotted/drilled benefits are a myth... But they do look cool.
Just wanted to verify that I have purchased the correct calipers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181602700879
http://www.ebay.com/itm/18160270080...trkparms=gh1g=I181602700802.N19.S2.M-8.R1.TR1
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181602700879
http://www.ebay.com/itm/18160270080...trkparms=gh1g=I181602700802.N19.S2.M-8.R1.TR1