Bi-Tron Oil Additive...Snake Oil? You be the Judge

[suprasport91]

We'll all be patiently awaiting the results of your analysis

Me too! I am quite curious to see what comes up, but ill be on it when i come back from Italy! You must keep in mind that i have a B.S. MIMG ( Microbiology, Imunology, Molecular Genetics) not chemistry, however, these are not hard tests to perform, they are however not all inclusive, there are many tests and such a product has to go through, its a shame the company itself did not do something, however...if you were a business man and knew your product was selling well would you bother testing it? I want this product to be the real thing, i however like many others have my doubts and opinions, i believe this will shed some light on the product, be it good or bad.

Now i realize there is concern that this product is corrosive, now with the catalyzing effects of metallic surfaces and the heat present, it is not difficult for for something like chlorine to hydrolize ( assuming a chlorinated product) within an engines internal environment. I will best try to provide tests using the environment of an engine:high temperatures, combustion, acid and oxidation precursors, moisture, unburned fuel and so forth in addition to this if there is chlorine present i will provide a precentage for which it is present.

 

[GotToyota?]

Great, can't wait for the results. I received a bottle of the "engine treatment" today, I traded a pair of my old speakers for it. I'll consider putting it in after I see some tests done.

-Matt

 

[GotToyota?]

Any updates on the research?

 

[Adjuster]

I'm interested in seeing where the test data leads on what makes up this product.

If it's a chlorine, did they figure out a way to process or treat it so you end up with long chains that do not vaporize as easy as the shorter ones? (Much like synthetic oils from what I understand.)

Or is this complete bunk? I suppose the testing will show what's up. (Or in this product anyway.)

Just a thought. If you used this stuff in your oil, and then changed your oil every 3,000 or 7,000 or 15,000 miles... would there be enough breakdown of the product to produce enough acid to become problematic v/s the benefits of the better lubrication properties before the stuff breaks down?

Not to be the devil's advocate, but most people rarely run their oil much more than say 5,000 miles. (There are a few who never change it, but no addtitive package will help those motors IMHO.) If they drain out the broken down acid with the normal oil change, and then add the bi-tron every 10k as reccomended, perhaps that's enough to provide the benefits of the chlorine based lubricant with out causing acid problems in the long term? (And thus the reason people who use this stuff like it, they never see any problems from acid damaged parts in the engines.)

I would think you would want to run a diesel oil to keep that acid under control as best as possible right? (Rated for CF.)

I'm not an oil expert, and I'm very interested in seeing how the test data turns out.

I also do not use this stuff in any vehicles I own, but have been watching the debate here with intest for awhile now.

If the test data shows this to be some stable form of chlorine based lubricant, I will add it to my cars no problem, and contiue to change the oil twice a year, and use a CF rated synthetic, or blended synthetic oil depending on the vehicle. (My motorcycle runs the Rottella T Synth as I change it every 1500 to 2k due to the oil being used in the gear box. Some cycle tests have proven that bikes are quite a bit harder on oil than cars, and oil shear in the gears I assume wipes out the viscosity pretty quickly.)
I've run Mobile One for years, but I'm changing over to Redline as it appears Mobile has started to blend a group III oil into their synthetics... damn them.

For quite a few years I ran Shaffer lubricants, and they had/have a diesel rated oil that is green. Great stuff. Don't know if it was full or blended synthtic, but on our service trucks, and my own personal cars, it worked great, and kept the inside of the engines spotless! (Not available here anymore, so I stopped using it.)

Please get that testing done ASAP

 

[suprageezer]

You know I got to thinking about this and my first thought was WHO would benefit the most from it. Truckers would so if there are any truckers out there that have experience with this product please do a write up. I choose my oil since it's one of the most prevelent oils used on the planet. I use Chevron Delo in all my vehicles. Shell Rotella is also a worldwide lubricant used by truckers. Truckers need oils that last, million of miles on a vehicle speak for themselves. Ever notice truck oils are not advertised at you at your local auto parts stores unless the guy ordering the oil knows what he or she is doing. I dont wanna hear the old harp trucks are deisel engines cause lemme tell ya something, inside MOST engines are made of similar metals and the purpose of oil is to lubricate these parts and at the same time remove hear from bearing surfaces. Thats one of the reasons I dont like multiweight oils, yes I know they have cool little springy molecules that straighten out with heat, but know what straight weight oil is just oil, you know the kind that lubricates and removes heat. So Im a sticking with Chevron 40wt delo, Wix oil and air filters, and no snake oils, well heck cause its been working for me for many many years. Yes I know there are the water thin oil guys, I just dont buy it, I have real 40wt experience myself in milage on my vehicles. This product kinda reminds me of B&M trick shift fluid, aka Ford tranny fliud for 6.00 a quart or Marvel Mystery Oil, aka tranny fluid. I'd love to come back years later and see what all the users of all these magical liquids oil weights have to say. I know the truckers will still be using Chevron Delo and Shell Rotella, I'll bet on it.

 

[werewolves182]

After reading through this whole thread Ive become very interested in the chemical makeup of Bi-Tron. Both sides make great points but Id just like to throw in my experience with Bi-tron. Regardless of if Bi-tron helped this situation or not its still kind of remarkable. Bi-Tron came highly recommended from Spaniard on SF. Ive been using it since the day I swapped in my 1jz back in September. After about 2 months of using Bi-Tron I went to change the oil, drained the oil (looked brand new BTW after 3500miles). I thought I had more oil in my garage but apparently not. I went out to buy the oil and when I got home my damn car was running. My brother had turned it on to show his friend. Apparently he hadn't realized what i was doing. Turned the car off immediately and asked how hoe long it had been running, he told me only a few minutes. After exchanging a few words I decided to pull the lower pan and inspect the bearings. Inspected the rod caps I could get to and they looked perfect. So I Plastigauged (SP?) them and were all within spec. Put the new oil in and the 8oz of Bi-Tron and have been just fine ever since.

I know its not scientific evidence but its pretty damn good evidence to me that it does something.

 

[GotToyota?]

I've heard enough feedback from the Supra owners to where I think I'll now try mine. I'm about to change my oil today or tomorrow and have a Bitron treatment just sitting here anyways. I'll post up a review when I get it done.

-Matt

 

[JMDigital]

I have a question, is the Bi-Tron we are talking about here the same as the one on this website?? Its a diffrent logo but it seems to be the same

http://www.bi-tronaustralia.com/

 

[bigaaron]

After reading through this whole thread Ive become very interested in the chemical makeup of Bi-Tron. Both sides make great points but Id just like to throw in my experience with Bi-tron. Regardless of if Bi-tron helped this situation or not its still kind of remarkable. Bi-Tron came highly recommended from Spaniard on SF. Ive been using it since the day I swapped in my 1jz back in September. After about 2 months of using Bi-Tron I went to change the oil, drained the oil (looked brand new BTW after 3500miles). I thought I had more oil in my garage but apparently not. I went out to buy the oil and when I got home my damn car was running. My brother had turned it on to show his friend. Apparently he hadn't realized what i was doing. Turned the car off immediately and asked how hoe long it had been running, he told me only a few minutes. After exchanging a few words I decided to pull the lower pan and inspect the bearings. Inspected the rod caps I could get to and they looked perfect. So I Plastigauged (SP?) them and were all within spec. Put the new oil in and the 8oz of Bi-Tron and have been just fine ever since.

I know its not scientific evidence but its pretty damn good evidence to me that it does something.

Uh, I call bs on this whole story.:bsflag:

So you are saying that you didn't put oil in and see if it was knocking afterwords or had any metal shavings in the oil, you just immediately pulled the whole (perfect running) engine out and pulled the pan off just to see if Bitron saved your bearings.

And even if you did, how dumb would it be to leave your keys in the ignition with no oil in the engine, then leave without even pulling the efi fuse or something. Lets see pics of your 1jz on a engine stand with no pan on it. Please prove me wrong. I looked through all your posts and there was no mention of this at all.

This Bitron nonsense ranks right up there with pyramid marketing schemes. They prey upon ignorant people and young people, and there are plenty of both on car forums.

 

[jdub]

^^^ I agree...I was wondering when someone knowledgeable would speak up.
Didn't say anything since I am the main protagonist in this thread. This sounds an awful lot like a Bi-Tron testimonial to me.

Any word on the analysis?

 

[werewolves182]

Uh, I call bs on this whole story.:bsflag:

So you are saying that you didn't put oil in and see if it was knocking afterwords or had any metal shavings in the oil, you just immediately pulled the whole (perfect running) engine out and pulled the pan off just to see if Bitron saved your bearings.

And even if you did, how dumb would it be to leave your keys in the ignition with no oil in the engine, then leave without even pulling the efi fuse or something. Lets see pics of your 1jz on a engine stand with no pan on it. Please prove me wrong. I looked through all your posts and there was no mention of this at all.

This Bitron nonsense ranks right up there with pyramid marketing schemes. They prey upon ignorant people and young people, and there are plenty of both on car forums.

Regaurdless of wether or not you believe my experiece it is true and just to clear some thing up... the keys were in the pasenger seat and i figured since the hood was up and was on jackstand that no one would try and turn it on while I went out to get oil (didnt realize i didnt have any in the garage). I didnt pull the engine. I lifted the engine up just enough to get to the lower oil pan bolts under the power steering and removed the lower oil pan only. Took off a rod cap to see if there was any damage and there wasnt. Put the lower pan back on and put the new oil in and have been fine ever since with no oil pressure problems.

As for me making a thread here about this experience. It didnt really seem necessary, I dont feel the need to report back to SM about every incident involving my supra.

It honestly doesnt bother me if you believe this or not. I can post up a pic of my 1jz on the stand before i put it in but I dont think that matters.

 

[dejacky]

so...what's the ETA on the empirical Bi-Tron test results? :naughty:

 

[Zazzn]

Err..

I never wrote that...

"ZaZZn, i personally had to try the Bitron stuff cause it moved me and me being an engineering student. I just had to do some tests. I am running them now, but lets just say that our 200,000 miles Porsche 944 that was dying ran for over an hour without else and a Bitron additive. We turned off the car cause we got nervous about breaking the car inside the Aerodynamics lab and it would have created a mess. But this stuff made me skeptical and now seeing the science being it, I am amazed. All I know is that I'm sure as hell adding it to my Supra."

*EDIT* someone was replying to one of my posts...... However, I've never used BI-tron and someone was replying to a question i had.

BTW the only thing i use addative for (lucas) is assembly lube... then i flush it out after startup

 

[tekdeus]

suprasport91 told me it could be a few months for the results. Be patient.

 

[dejacky]

suprasport91 told me it could be a few months for the results. Be patient.

A few months is too much. Someone tell me the exact test that need to be done and I'll see if I can get it done in the Dallas area immediately. :naughty:

 

[dejacky]

bump

I'm tired of waiting. Send me a sample with a description of the types of needed tests. I'll get it done.

 

[bigaaron]

Why would he send you a sample? Then you'll find out that you can buy the same stuff for 1/2 the price at any Auto Zone or Pep boys.

 

[dejacky]

Why would he send you a sample? Then you'll find out that you can buy the same stuff for 1/2 the price at any Auto Zone or Pep boys.

really? what are the names of these "same stuff" products at Autoz Zone or PepBoys?

 

[Nick M]

Forget all the science... and marketing crap Donny is yapping about.

Ummm....

There are two many edumacated people here that recognize a used car sales pitch when they see it.

What is happening? The camera does not lie.

Really?

This is the internet. I know there are many retards that don't use the forum search function, but debunking a bullshiter is not very hard thanks to google.

 

[jdub]

really? what are the names of these "same stuff" products at Autoz Zone or PepBoys?

Marvel, Lucas, Slick 50 come to mind.