88 Blue Turbo restoration/upgrade story

[boostcraver]

Ok... both me and the car survived the drive, and I arrived much faster than expected... now to find a place to live ... more to come soon including pics

Good to hear it...now get settled in and keep this thread updated often with some good stuff

 

[RazoE]

Ok... both me and the car survived the drive, and I arrived much faster than expected... now to find a place to live ... more to come soon including pics

congratulations! Wow 2000 miles, I don't trust mine to make it 50 miles, haha..

I kid I kid, please don't break down on me Mr. Supra, I need you.....:'(

 

[lithium14]

thanks guys, but uhoh, new funny noise, its a rapid clicking during slight acceleration from a stop or really slow speed... and the clicking is in time with the acceleration

 

[mobes]

Glad you made it.

My first guess on the clicking would the speedometer cable. Where is the sound coming from?

 

[lithium14]

not sure I can only hear it with my window down and if im driving in a quiet place or a closed in place where the sound echos back to me... def not the cable since I just replaced that... unless its coming from where it meets the tranny, but shouldnt I notice the needle jumping?... also I doubt the cable is that loud out side the car... its not an inside noise ... *sigh and I'm detecting a very faint fuel smell from the egr, fuel dampener area... ugh

 

[boostcraver]

A vid or audio of the noise would be helpful. Does it seem to be coming from the front of the car or the rear? If you didn't change your rear gear oil again and add the right additive before making your long drive, it could be that. Got one for you if that's it and you need one. I hope for your sake it's not the dreaded rod knock... and if the fuel damper is leaking as I suspect it may be ( They ALL do at some point), I have one I would sell you cheap. I'm getting a Driftmotion AFPR with damper/j-tube bypass lines so I won't be needing it again. Lemme know...

 

[lithium14]

OH god... one question with rod knock you should be able to hear it even in idle right? or if the engine is revved while in park?? I will have a vid tomorrow... shouldn't be the fuel damper I just had a new one put in because the old one was leaking... AGH!!! *tears hair

 

[boostcraver]

OH god... one question with rod knock you should be able to hear it even in idle right? or if the engine is revved while in park?? I will have a vid tomorrow... shouldn't be the fuel damper I just had a new one put in because the old one was leaking... AGH!!! *tears hair

I thought you had said that you put a new one in, but it still could be there if you reused the old copper crush washers when you installed it, or if it wasn't tightened to the TSRM spec. Not saying you did or didn't, just suggesting things to check. It could just as easily be a bad injector o-ring. Get a bright (LED type is best) flashlight and look VERY CAREFULLY at the lower intake manifold around/under the fuel rail. If an injector is leaking, the fuel will tend to pool on the top of the manifold close to where it meets the head and as it burns off it will leave dark tell-tale streaks. The good news is your motor is super clean, so you should be able to spot it easily if it's there

The rod knock would be constant regardless of rpm or load, it would just be louder/faster at higher RPM...

EDIT: I forgot to mention that it will be necessary to have the car running to most easily spot the fuel leak with the flashlight and you may need to look at it from a few different angles before the fuel will catch the light good enough for you to see it with the intake and other goodies in the way. Catch 22 situation since it would be easier to see without everything there but it would then be unable to run so the fuel system wouldn't stay pressurized. Oh well...

 

[lithium14]

Hmm thanks for the info!! So I don't think it's rod knock since I can't hear it except during said occasions... and I got me a surefire tactical light... should be bright enough :evil2:... but it might not have been tight enough... I didn't have a torque wrench so I had to go by feel... *sigh I really need a torque wrench... and crows feet to work on the fuel dampener. LoL thanks again!

 

[D.J.T.]

OH god... one question with rod knock you should be able to hear it even in idle right? or if the engine is revved while in park?? I will have a vid tomorrow... shouldn't be the fuel damper I just had a new one put in because the old one was leaking... AGH!!! *tears hair

you know you have a rod knock when theres a knock coming from the engine & you step on the gas & it gets quicker.... yesterday i literally saw a durango with white smoke puffing out of the muffler & rod knock driving around...... BHG & Idling at high RPMS... & then they say "how the fkk did the engine break?" stoooooooopid people i swear!! :3d_frown:

 

[lithium14]

Ok... I discovered that the A/C belt is frayed... causing hellish squealing at start-up... uploading pics now, can overtightening of the top pulley cause this?... and I got my new steering rack

Since I don't have the tools right now I think I may have to drive to toyota asap and have them replace the belt and perhaps do a tuneup as well...

---------- Post added at 01:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:09 PM ----------

pics:

the bits of belt my underpanel caught

 

[lithium14]

http://www.importperformancetrans.c...ebuild-kit-w-raybestos-blue-plates--1785.html

this rebuild kit should work for the A340E correct?? There are no other rebuild kits that they offer....

 

[D.J.T.]

Go with new belts.... if the inside of the belts look shiny replace them, they usually start slipping by then.

 

[boostcraver]

http://www.importperformancetrans.c...ebuild-kit-w-raybestos-blue-plates--1785.html

this rebuild kit should work for the A340E correct?? There are no other rebuild kits that they offer....

Seems like it would be a solid enough kit, but if you read the fine print it says, "when used in conjunction with one of our modified valve bodies and custom TC's" so expect to pay more than the $658 for the kit alone to get up and running again.

 

[lithium14]

Found out my coolant leak was not the BVSV... duh.... it's coming from between the thermostat housing and the other piece... *sigh

 

[D.J.T.]

Found out my coolant leak was not the BVSV... duh.... it's coming from between the thermostat housing and the other piece... *sigh

Go to Oreilly's & buy Federal Mogul (Fel-Pro) gasket material... & that way you can make your own gasket. I always have a roll for just in case scenarios.

 

[lithium14]

hmmm sounds good, but I have to drain the coolant and take off the housing right?

 

[D.J.T.]

hmmm sounds good, but I have to drain the coolant and take off the housing right?

YEs. Drain it from the Radiator & well try to catch all the good coolant & resuse if you want... Id go with new coolant though because sometimes it comes out with dirt.

 

[lithium14]

OMFG... please tell me that high humidity destroys my old belts because I'm seeing all my other belts starting to disintegrate... this is definitely NOT something I can fix myself.. I think I may have to go back to toyota and get em all replaced including the timing belt... wonder how much that'll cost

 

[mobes]

I doubt humidity has anything to do with it. How long ago was the timing belt done?

Don't take it to Charles Maund whatever you do. Just take a look at their reviews. I'm not sure about Champion. Either way I'd say the dealer would be a waste of money for belts. Just about any 'ol shop should be able to do them.

You can bring it by this weekend if you want. It should only take a half hour or so to get them changed. PM me if you want to do that and I'll get you the address.