88 Blue Turbo restoration/upgrade story
- Thread starter lithium14
- Start date
Food for thought, I always use a stock Toyota radiator cap. I never like the higher pressure caps for obvious reasons.
Higher pressure means a higher boiling point for the coolant. You should not need a higher boiling point if you have a good clean cooling system and a working fan clutch with an aluminum radiator. Stick with a stock PSI cap. Get a new one from Toyota or aftermarket at the stock PSI rating.
Higher pressure means a higher boiling point for the coolant. You should not need a higher boiling point if you have a good clean cooling system and a working fan clutch with an aluminum radiator. Stick with a stock PSI cap. Get a new one from Toyota or aftermarket at the stock PSI rating.
Yeah, I'll be there after I return the pressure washer I rented... Hmmm Sounds like a good idea, I'm going to look into getting a Toyota cap.
HOWEVER, I decided that I was going to flush out the cleaner I had in there and refill with actual coolant this time. I am in the process of flushing right now, but as I was filling with distilled water, I noticed a thin film of oil in the water
... total epic fail, I really hope it's not what I think it is
HOWEVER, I decided that I was going to flush out the cleaner I had in there and refill with actual coolant this time. I am in the process of flushing right now, but as I was filling with distilled water, I noticed a thin film of oil in the water
... total epic fail, I really hope it's not what I think it is
Are you still using water? Or did you put coolent in. Are your fans turning on? Like iboughtasupra said, maybe the combination of water and higher boiling point might have something to do with it?
right now its running water and prestone flush, once I drain that I'll refill with coolant... then I gotta make another run for concrete cleaner, so we'll see how it runs with real coolant... but that tiny bit of oil floating on the water has me all upside down and twisted *super frown
---------- Post added at 04:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:11 PM ----------
the two small fans haven't turned on yet... they were on earlier, but that was during my driving around, and it was sorta hot out too
---------- Post added at 04:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:11 PM ----------
the two small fans haven't turned on yet... they were on earlier, but that was during my driving around, and it was sorta hot out too
Certain Anti-freeze have a oily film to them. BMW anti-freeze is one of them. Crack open a new bottle and you will see.
Fill it with Toyota red or don't fill it at all. Ian will agree with me on this as it is one of the best things you can do for your cooling system. The previous owner used green on my 1JZ and I will be flushing out the heater core on my car this weekend as well.
Here is food for thought, BMW uses their special anti-freeze and no, it is not a marketing scam. The previous owner of my 740IL used green coolant in the system. What happened to the valley pan? There are two tubes that run from the back of the block to the front and into the water pump. The coolant rotten those aluminum pipes and both needed replacing.
It was not a cheap job as the whole intake and front of the engine had to be disassembled. Lesson learned here, always use the OEM fluids. You can get away on power steering fluid since it is just Dexron 3 and Redline diff and gearbox oil. Everywhere else, I use Toyota fluids.
OEM stuff is engineered to run 24/7, so if you can use it, go right ahead. I try to give good advice on here and when people don't listen, I call in Grumpy IJ, and if they still don't listen, then I really have nothing to say.
Get the Toyota fluid, that is an order.
Lastly, if any part of this pst came off rude in any way, shape of form, it was not intended.
Fill it with Toyota red or don't fill it at all. Ian will agree with me on this as it is one of the best things you can do for your cooling system. The previous owner used green on my 1JZ and I will be flushing out the heater core on my car this weekend as well.
Here is food for thought, BMW uses their special anti-freeze and no, it is not a marketing scam. The previous owner of my 740IL used green coolant in the system. What happened to the valley pan? There are two tubes that run from the back of the block to the front and into the water pump. The coolant rotten those aluminum pipes and both needed replacing.
It was not a cheap job as the whole intake and front of the engine had to be disassembled. Lesson learned here, always use the OEM fluids. You can get away on power steering fluid since it is just Dexron 3 and Redline diff and gearbox oil. Everywhere else, I use Toyota fluids.
OEM stuff is engineered to run 24/7, so if you can use it, go right ahead. I try to give good advice on here and when people don't listen, I call in Grumpy IJ, and if they still don't listen, then I really have nothing to say.
Get the Toyota fluid, that is an order.
Lastly, if any part of this pst came off rude in any way, shape of form, it was not intended.
OH no worries, as soon as I discovered my engine was running green coolant I flushed it out for toyo red. Remember my 6 flush fiasco about 2 months ago? LoL... perhaps it is residue left over. SA Supra can attest there was A LOT of nasty stuff in my coolant passages, and perhaps running that cleaner through it right after all the work i did loosened lotsa stuff.... i hope. Also... I'll show SA supra tomorrow, but either something is horribly wrong or Royal Purple really does clean very well, but when I look down my oilcap, it's SUPER clean inside, like SUPER CLEAN. My oil dipstick is coated in what looks like clear oil. I know its not water because well... it feels like oil and smells like oil. I will say though, the last couple flushes I have done, the water coming out has never been this clean before. Now if the compression tests show up good tomorrow, I'm thinking about retorquing at the latest by this weekend... there isn't anything wrong with retorquing early is there?
I have contacted the grumpy old man and he said between 5-7 full heat cycles.
One heat cycle = Up to operating temperature and then back down to being dead cold. Allows for thermal expansion and cooling.
When retorquing, it is suggested that you back off the nut just a little, get it to "crack" and then pull it back to spec. You will be braking the static friction. Do not break the bolt with your torque wrench as you will need to recalibate it after doing that. This is what Ian told me he likes to do but he is very careful on this same thing and I agree.
I am not a fan of backing off a nut from a head bolt, even if it's for a tiny bit, just to get it to turn. Some say set your wrench to spec and then pull, then others say, turn back enough to "crack" the nut loose, a very little amount, and then pull to spec with your torque wrench, doing each nut one at a time, not loosen all then pull them.
One heat cycle = Up to operating temperature and then back down to being dead cold. Allows for thermal expansion and cooling.
When retorquing, it is suggested that you back off the nut just a little, get it to "crack" and then pull it back to spec. You will be braking the static friction. Do not break the bolt with your torque wrench as you will need to recalibate it after doing that. This is what Ian told me he likes to do but he is very careful on this same thing and I agree.
I am not a fan of backing off a nut from a head bolt, even if it's for a tiny bit, just to get it to turn. Some say set your wrench to spec and then pull, then others say, turn back enough to "crack" the nut loose, a very little amount, and then pull to spec with your torque wrench, doing each nut one at a time, not loosen all then pull them.
sounds good... so not enough to actually loosen them, but just to crack it so like... 1/8th of a turn? maybe 1/4 turn at most?
and guess what... I found a coolant leak... its not coming from any hoses, it leaking from the bottom passenger side of the radiator itself... nothing I can do about that right now probably need a new radiator, funny thing is, It just started leaking... i swear it wasn't leaking before because if it was leaking earlier like it is now, I would have noticed it... it's not exactly a small leak... perhaps my cleaning got rid of the gunk that was sealing the leak!! =O... so probably need a new rad.. wtf
however this still doesn't explain that random hiccup from the engine earlier in the presence of the mk4....
and guess what... I found a coolant leak... its not coming from any hoses, it leaking from the bottom passenger side of the radiator itself... nothing I can do about that right now
probably need a new radiator, funny thing is, It just started leaking... i swear it wasn't leaking before because if it was leaking earlier like it is now, I would have noticed it... it's not exactly a small leak... perhaps my cleaning got rid of the gunk that was sealing the leak!! =O... so probably need a new rad.. wtfhowever this still doesn't explain that random hiccup from the engine earlier in the presence of the mk4....
Stop as soon as you feel the nut give a little turn, as that is enough. May not even be an 1/8th of a turn, even less. Just as soon as you feel a little turn on the nut, that is fine.
If you take the radiator to any radiator store, they can usually weld it up for you. Is it one of the vanes?
If you take the radiator to any radiator store, they can usually weld it up for you. Is it one of the vanes?
In that case, you will have to find a used radiator or get a new one. I know BigZavs is selling a Koyo for 350 if that is in your budget.
If not, just get a replacement from DriftMotion.
If not, just get a replacement from DriftMotion.
I will have to look into that... latest drive? absolutely normal, no high idle, nothing zip nada... not even boost (which is very hard even for an auto )
also... have an absolutely magnificent thunderstorm right now... reminds me of why I love texas. On the west coast it jut rains... nothing to beat the monotony of rain... but here, when it rains, you get eye candy in the form of awesome lightning!!! woot!!!
) also... have an absolutely magnificent thunderstorm right now... reminds me of why I love texas. On the west coast it jut rains... nothing to beat the monotony of rain... but here, when it rains, you get eye candy in the form of awesome lightning!!! woot!!!
yep with coolant no steam... she behaved herself for once... really hoping everything is ok... excepting the rad... btw I checked out Bigzavs koyo rad, i think it's for a manual... so I might get the driftmotion one, but I'm gonna look around some more
no steam... she behaved herself for once... really hoping everything is ok... excepting the rad... btw I checked out Bigzavs koyo rad, i think it's for a manual... so I might get the driftmotion one, but I'm gonna look around some more