Hmmm ... been doing some more searching aaaannnnnd I can either get the koyo oem style rad from driftmotion for 160... or incorporate my intention of adding a tranny cooler and get the koyo rad from bigzavs with a tranny cooler... hmmm should I upgrade or just stay oem...
88 Blue Turbo restoration/upgrade story
- Thread starter lithium14
- Start date
We've got a radiator here at the shop if you still need one. Its a metal/copper core one, not plastic. Might have another one as well, but for sure have one out of an 89 Supra. I'll ask my cousin tomorrow how much he wants for it if you're interested.
Hey Andrew, just wanted to let you know I have finally managed to get the whole blue interior out of the car it was in, so I will send you a pm with some pics of the seatbelt stuff you wanted, but I'll need you to refresh my memory as to which parts you wanted. Oh yeah, on the subject of the rad, if you can get a good Koyo rad for 350, jump on it and I'll send you a spare PS cooler to run your trans fluid through when I ship the rest of the interior parts to you. I won't even charge you for it
Thanks.
Thanks.Alright!! I'm gonna have to go look through my messages again and get back to you on that I can't remember either. But I do have good news, just got back from SA supra's place, we did a compression check and got good numbers: #1:162, #2:161. #3:162, #4:160, #5:162, #6:164. So all in all less than 5psi variance!! And the coolant leak I thought I had... apparently was just overflow from when I was burping the system. All that remains is a slightly higher idle around the 1k area, but after a minute of idling it usually drops to normal range of 800 to 700. now I can turn my focus to getting ready for school for the first time in over 5 years... oh boy
I can't remember either. But I do have good news, just got back from SA supra's place, we did a compression check and got good numbers: #1:162, #2:161. #3:162, #4:160, #5:162, #6:164. So all in all less than 5psi variance!! And the coolant leak I thought I had... apparently was just overflow from when I was burping the system. All that remains is a slightly higher idle around the 1k area, but after a minute of idling it usually drops to normal range of 800 to 700. now I can turn my focus to getting ready for school for the first time in over 5 years... oh boy
I would highly recommend an external transmission cooler.. The biggest one you can find! Don't use the stock one. It does nothing, more of a tranny heater...
Yeah... eventually I do plan on getting a tranny cooler since I plan on getting a built auto. Here's the ebay link for the leather interior pieces SA supra: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0608620934&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT
really good quality stuff
really good quality stuff
lithium14;1709243 said:
Yea, lol. Its Phil, I sold you the maroon mirrors not too long ago. The upper and lower tanks are made out of metal/copper, Ill check the brand tomorrow if I get a chance, but its basically an OEM style one, not anything aftermarket like a KOYO or Fluidyne. We also have a pretty much brand new radiator out of a turbo supra. This one is plastic and was used for like 100 miles or less... really, lol. OEM style as well.
Are you sure you got all the vacuum hoses routed and plugged properly? CPS set right? Cams PROPERLY aligned before tensioning the timing belt? I have found that the cams draw a tad counter-clockwise when applying tension on the belt, so they have to be pulled a bout half a tooth past the mark the other way, then install the belt, then pull tension on the belt pulling the cams back on the mark. I didn't do that when I put my first HG job back together and it had a part throttle hiccup and was slightly down on power for about a week til I figured it out and re-timed it the right way. Also idled a little high which is why I brought it up, but there's more that could cause it. Just puttin' a few ideas out there for you to run down and eliminate. Personally I still think it sounds like a TPS issue, though. You said it didn't look like it had moved according to the paint marks but even a slight jar and a MM movement can make a difference. Did you ever take it loose and see if moving it changed the idle? Keep us posted and for Pete's sake, post some pics already:ttiwwp:
:ttiwwp:I'm very confident bout my vacuum hose routing , but the line to my egr is cracked, and since I'm out of 4mm vacuum hose, I taped it up with electrical tape. I would like to replace all my vacuum lines maybe with silicone hose from Hose Techniques. I'm pretty positive about the CPS, I set it just as SA Supra instructed, and I just read Shaeff's article so it is possible the CPS could use a little adjustment, but I have no timing light, so I might have to ask around to see if anyone around here has one. Also your point about the belt is very feasible, I'm going to double check it when I do my retorque this weekend, also with the tensioner, I'm not entirely sure how that is supposed to be set, all I did was pull it so it was tight and then torqued it down to specs. As far as I could tell the two areas where tension should be equal felt about the same. I will also check the tps, and possibly isc... but damn.. I'm reading the tsrm on how to check these things.. and I do not have the tools to do it... need thickness gauges and an ohmeter... *sigh
on another note, I painted the silver corners of my windshied black... looks odd since NOBODY has theirs black LoL
, but the line to my egr is cracked, and since I'm out of 4mm vacuum hose, I taped it up with electrical tape. I would like to replace all my vacuum lines maybe with silicone hose from Hose Techniques. I'm pretty positive about the CPS, I set it just as SA Supra instructed, and I just read Shaeff's article so it is possible the CPS could use a little adjustment, but I have no timing light, so I might have to ask around to see if anyone around here has one. Also your point about the belt is very feasible, I'm going to double check it when I do my retorque this weekend, also with the tensioner, I'm not entirely sure how that is supposed to be set, all I did was pull it so it was tight and then torqued it down to specs. As far as I could tell the two areas where tension should be equal felt about the same. I will also check the tps, and possibly isc... but damn.. I'm reading the tsrm on how to check these things.. and I do not have the tools to do it... need thickness gauges and an ohmeter... *sighon another note, I painted the silver corners of my windshied black... looks odd since NOBODY has theirs black LoL
I have a timing light, multi-meter and feeler gauges. You're welcome to come by and use them whenever. I get off work at 6 and would be happy to help after then, or this weekend.
lithium14;1709751 said:I'm very confident bout my vacuum hose routing
on another note, I painted the silver corners of my windshied black... looks odd since NOBODY has theirs black LoL
Checking the timing marks will tell you all you need to know about where the cams are set. Line up TDC #1 on the crank at 0* and then look at the cam gears. If the marks on the cams are centered on the marks in the rear timing cover you're good, provided the crank damper pulley is on straight and lined up as it should be with the crank. If not, re-time it as I described and then proceed with the re-setting of the CPS. It won't be accurate if you try to do it the other way around.
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OK I did my first retorque after 6 heat cycles. Trying to break the bolts loose was a huge pain... I ended up using a pipe to get enough leverage to move the ratchet... and are you supposed to hear a loud pop/crack when the bolt "breaks" loose? I only loosened each one about 1/8th of a turn before retorquing up to 77.5 ft/lbs... I almost at 300 miles, so I think next weekend will be the final retorque, but like I said is it normal to hear a crack when you break a bolt loose?
---------- Post added at 10:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:50 AM ----------
oh and i managed to break a t-bolt clamp LoL!!! I'll post some pics later, bu keep in mind the engine bay is not near finished state.
---------- Post added at 10:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:50 AM ----------
oh and i managed to break a t-bolt clamp LoL!!! I'll post some pics later, bu keep in mind the engine bay is not near finished state.
Good to hear. Still doing good? No problems?
I am still trying to clean my garage.....lol. I did finish the interior 100% though.
I am still trying to clean my garage.....lol. I did finish the interior 100% though.
nice!!! are you gonna start a build thread? the car is doing pretty good, she pulls pretty well without the turbo, can't wait to see with!! haha, driving around all day under 2600 rpm... kind lame but oh well. Put the two small underbody panels back on just now.
what do you think about the crack sound when I break the bolts loose? normal?
what do you think about the crack sound when I break the bolts loose? normal?