I'll try and get there around 8-9 that way we can get some work done before it gets hot. If that's ok with you.
88 Blue Turbo restoration/upgrade story
- Thread starter lithium14
- Start date
lithium14;1707842 said:
Just looked at the pics a little closer and see your right. Oh well. When you think your gonna have it all back together?
well, we got the head back on today... that was interesting to say the least. At first it wouldn't sit right, but then I lifted the front a little and set it back down and it sat right. I coated the HG with a couple layers of copper spray sealant too. One little thing that I'm nervous about, when I lifted the front a little there was a small dribble of water that leaked out of my supposedly dry head onto the gasket. After much discussion we decided it would do more harm to remove the head since it had already settled on the copper sealant covered HG, so hopefully torquing down the bolts squeezed the moisture out :/. I also did put the fipg at required spots... weird grammar there... 
---------- Post added at 11:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:34 AM ----------
Oh and i torqued it to 75 starting from 25 to 35, 45, 55, 65, then 75... when I retorque them I plan on going up to 80. we also broke the bolts loose before each torquing pass, one at a time.
Again thanks for the help SA Supra!!!
---------- Post added at 11:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:34 AM ----------
Oh and i torqued it to 75 starting from 25 to 35, 45, 55, 65, then 75... when I retorque them I plan on going up to 80. we also broke the bolts loose before each torquing pass, one at a time.
Again thanks for the help SA Supra!!!
75 ft lbs. is plenty with bolts and stock composite HG. Still a good idea to re-torque after several heat cycles and then again at 500 miles.
lithium14;1708059 said:LoL awesome you answered the question i was just about to embark on a research trip for
Yes. once you reach operating temp. that = 1 heat cycle
haha i love the wildlife documentation.. nice touch, and mixes up all the mechanical photos.
also, ps reservoir looks awesome! good luck cleanin stuff man.
also, ps reservoir looks awesome! good luck cleanin stuff man.
Awesome thanks again guys...
k moar pics
wtf... you tell me what's going on here
the mess that is my engine bay right now
fipg love
colorful
OK now wtf... WHERE DOES THIS HOSE GO?!?!?!?!?! new one on the left, old one on the right. I have consulted tsrm and can't see where this one goes, I've searched high and low through my engine bay for ports that are unused to no avail. I know there are some coolant lines not hooked up (all on intake side) but!!! they are all the smaller ones that go to the throttle body, nothing near this thick. I know it was used though cuz the old reeks of nasty coolant gunk. AGH!!!!
k moar pics
wtf... you tell me what's going on here
the mess that is my engine bay right now
fipg love
colorful
OK now wtf... WHERE DOES THIS HOSE GO?!?!?!?!?! new one on the left, old one on the right. I have consulted tsrm and can't see where this one goes, I've searched high and low through my engine bay for ports that are unused to no avail. I know there are some coolant lines not hooked up (all on intake side) but!!! they are all the smaller ones that go to the throttle body, nothing near this thick. I know it was used though cuz the old reeks of nasty coolant gunk. AGH!!!!
nvm.. I figured out what was going on. I apparently reused my old head to heater hose for the heater to head hose... cuz the old head to heater hose was shorter than my new replacement hose, and it was very similar in shape to the new heater to head hose. hahaha try and make sense out of that!! haha, anyways problem solved
lithium14;1708151 said:Awesome thanks again guys...
wtf... you tell me what's going on here
Ok i can see where the dipstick goes & i see you got a Toyota Gasket, just need the block off plate. Nothing goes there & by the looks, it looks like your manifold bracket doesn't line up to the block?
D.J.T.;1708071 said:
+1 to the above + allowing to cool to cold again. Allow to sit 8-12 hours between cycles so the block and head can expand and contract sufficiently and settle again as they cool.
---------- Post added at 07:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:40 PM ----------
D.J.T.;1708192 said:lithium14;1708151 said:Awesome thanks again guys...
wtf... you tell me what's going on here
Ok i can see where the dipstick goes & i see you got a Toyota Gasket, just need the block off plate. Nothing goes there & by the looks, it looks like your manifold bracket doesn't line up to the block?
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the gasket for the oil return line? What block off plate are you talking about?
hmmm not as bad as I feared... almost done with the wiring and stuff... only things left, bolt up the vsv to the lowers and the two ground wires as well. There's a mount on the fuel feed line, but it doesn't match up to anything... Then I need to finish polishing the uppers and put that on, then I will be done
allllllright got it all put together except ic piping, intake, upper intake, throttle linkages and coil packs. I have no more cleaning supplies so I have to postpone the cleansing of the inside of my upper intake, so ill scrub it out some early tomorrow then slap it on with a cheaper gasket. (I have 2, one has a thin metal layer in it, seems more robust so I'll save it for when I'm done cleaning and polishing the upper intake mani). I think I'm going to invest in a powered sanding tool since I have lots of polished items... sanding by hand is just taking waaaaaay too long with minimal results. I decided on not taking pics so there won't be any teasing When I next post pics, I will be completely done with the bay. That will include hacksawing the mounts on the 3000 pipe to the valve covers since with my setup it no longer matches up. It will also include finalized polish on all... polished stuff.
I'm just hoping my initial startup tomorrow will go smoothly. I will take SA supras tip and prime the system by pulling the efi fuse then cranking for 5 sec about 3-4 times to build up fuel and oil pressure, then replacing the efi fuse and starting for real. I will have to run tap water through the coolant system for my short drive to and from my supply points at which point I will flush the system and fill with distilled water with prestone heavy duty cleaner. I will also change my oil before the startup and install the fumoto valve. I will also get a new filter and some more oil, so once I return from my supply trip I can change the oil again and replace the filter. Really don't want the slightest risk of contamination and possible rod knock or anything gay like that.
got it all put together except ic piping, intake, upper intake, throttle linkages and coil packs. I have no more cleaning supplies so I have to postpone the cleansing of the inside of my upper intake, so ill scrub it out some early tomorrow then slap it on with a cheaper gasket. (I have 2, one has a thin metal layer in it, seems more robust so I'll save it for when I'm done cleaning and polishing the upper intake mani). I think I'm going to invest in a powered sanding tool since I have lots of polished items... sanding by hand is just taking waaaaaay too long with minimal results. I decided on not taking pics so there won't be any teasing When I next post pics, I will be completely done with the bay. That will include hacksawing the mounts on the 3000 pipe to the valve covers since with my setup it no longer matches up. It will also include finalized polish on all... polished stuff.I'm just hoping my initial startup tomorrow will go smoothly. I will take SA supras tip and prime the system by pulling the efi fuse then cranking for 5 sec about 3-4 times to build up fuel and oil pressure, then replacing the efi fuse and starting for real. I will have to run tap water through the coolant system for my short drive to and from my supply points at which point I will flush the system and fill with distilled water with prestone heavy duty cleaner. I will also change my oil before the startup and install the fumoto valve. I will also get a new filter and some more oil, so once I return from my supply trip I can change the oil again and replace the filter. Really don't want the slightest risk of contamination and possible rod knock or anything gay like that.
Good news!!! she lives!!!! AND RUNS SMOOTHLY TOO!!!!! LoL... the engine also sounds... different now, its somehow a deeper tone. I am going to baby her until I have everything done with fluids, filter etc etc.
the initial startup was good, I cranked it with the efi fuse out about 6 times cuz I didn't see my fuel pressure indicator rise, and when I went to start it for real I had to give it mad gas for it to come to life, but once it did, smooth sailing. I did however find out why it was hard at first, I had forgotten to torque down the cold start injector at the fuel rail, so there was a steady stream squirting out. Needless to say I corrected that immediately
Another thing... my fumoto valve didn't fit it's only a 12mm thread... should be 18... doh
ok now to clean up and prepare for a supply run
the initial startup was good, I cranked it with the efi fuse out about 6 times cuz I didn't see my fuel pressure indicator rise, and when I went to start it for real I had to give it mad gas for it to come to life, but once it did, smooth sailing. I did however find out why it was hard at first, I had forgotten to torque down the cold start injector at the fuel rail, so there was a steady stream squirting out. Needless to say I corrected that immediately
Another thing... my fumoto valve didn't fit
it's only a 12mm thread... should be 18... dohok now to clean up and prepare for a supply run
