from what I learned while wiring my stinger up you do not need a diode bc the stinger is only sending out a ground signal.....there is not a current that should be coming back to need a diode unless u've wired something up wrong
7m Stinger Thread
- Thread starter TurboStreetCar
- Start date
blackkarma;1407755 said:
So what your saying is that I should just be able to plug it in and Ill have ignition? I'm sorry if I come across as being dumb but I just really make sure I get it right the first time. I dont want to let the magic smoke out of the box
Les have you tried posting this issue on the AEM forum? Might be worth a try as for some reason people seem hesitant to give out info on some of the stinger wiring tricks.
http://www.enginemanagement.com.au/forum/
http://www.enginemanagement.com.au/forum/
wiseco7mgt;1407760 said:
Yeah I'll try doing that mate, I just thought seeing as how the 7m stinger plug and play harness is made by a Driftmotion and lots of guys here have used them the info would be easy to come by.
yep its that simple just plugging it in...what alot of people fail to notice is that the stinger doesnt tap into the power source of really anything so there really is no reason to worry about a back current.....
i also know people using the DM harness besides connecting the grounds pf the stock harness together like DM suggest it is just that plug and play.
i can also say that its not that people dont want to give you more information its just that most have the same question you have....you really dont have to think about issues like this unless your making your own harness.
if you need more assistance feel free to pm me i will give you my number
i also know people using the DM harness besides connecting the grounds pf the stock harness together like DM suggest it is just that plug and play.
i can also say that its not that people dont want to give you more information its just that most have the same question you have....you really dont have to think about issues like this unless your making your own harness.
if you need more assistance feel free to pm me i will give you my number
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blackkarma;1407775 said:
Mate thank you very much, thats just what I thought I just needed to check.
You say "besides connecting the grounds pf the stock harness together like DM suggest " could you please explain a bit more about it please.
While I'm at it do you know if I need to run a relay for the fuel pump?
Thanks again
np
as for the grounds on the stinger harness there are only 2 grounding points, so you need to find the 2 grounds that connect to the primary and secondary grounds on the stinger. all of the other stock hrness grounds must be tied into those two main points.
and yes the fuel pump needs a relay....the aux is a ground signal so that will be the switch
as for the grounds on the stinger harness there are only 2 grounding points, so you need to find the 2 grounds that connect to the primary and secondary grounds on the stinger. all of the other stock hrness grounds must be tied into those two main points.
and yes the fuel pump needs a relay....the aux is a ground signal so that will be the switch
blackkarma;1407783 said:
Ok I'll have a go at it over the next few days, thanks mate and I'll pm you if you dont mind ifI run into any trouble.
Cheers
Les
im not using a plug and play harness, im building one from scratch. so can i hook up the 1st ignition channel to igf then the 2nd to igda and the 3rd to igdb? or do i need to add something in there?
How about we make a pinout diagram for the stinger with the pinouts for the mark3 both early and late plugs? It would stop a lot of repetitve questions asked ,i can start if a better wiring tech can correct what i've done. i have one drawn up for my turbo-a which has the same layout basicly as the 89+.
I believe the plug and play harness has the diodes wired in. i made my own harness so im unsure of this.
The reason you need the diodes is because the stock ignitor is of multiplex variety, at least to my understanding.
To my understanding the ignitor needs multiple inputs to correctly trigger witch coil to fire. The diodes keep these inputs electronically "separate" so there only triggered when needed. Without the diodes they would trigger not only when necessary but any other time either wire had a signal.
Remember current flow is there whether you switch ground or power.
Blackkarma: Think you could try loading that calibration file i posted and see if it works for you?
The reason you need the diodes is because the stock ignitor is of multiplex variety, at least to my understanding.
To my understanding the ignitor needs multiple inputs to correctly trigger witch coil to fire. The diodes keep these inputs electronically "separate" so there only triggered when needed. Without the diodes they would trigger not only when necessary but any other time either wire had a signal.
Remember current flow is there whether you switch ground or power.
Blackkarma: Think you could try loading that calibration file i posted and see if it works for you?
not really sure how a diode would help the multiplex to tell which coil to fire the signal is based on which ground is making contact at that given moment....a diode generally channels a signal in a specific direction not allowing that signal to reverse on itself.
as far as the current flow stinger is set up to take a ground wire from each coil pack, the ignition runs off 1 12v wire that is split to the 3 different coil packs giving them constant power while the car is on.
but who am i to say your wrong about the multiplex, i just dont understand how that would work and what the diodes roll is....
your right current is there but the voltage isnt is what i was getting at...
as far as the current flow stinger is set up to take a ground wire from each coil pack, the ignition runs off 1 12v wire that is split to the 3 different coil packs giving them constant power while the car is on.
but who am i to say your wrong about the multiplex, i just dont understand how that would work and what the diodes roll is....
your right current is there but the voltage isnt is what i was getting at...
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When you refer to the calibration files are you referring to how much fuel you add or subtract when the water is a certain temperature? If so, I would like to see what you guys are running since I'm trying to tune George's now. It also seems to have a short hesitation when pressing the accelerator. On mine I had to increase the acceleration enrichment and that took it out. On George's it's not being quite as easy to work with.
Thanks., Jay
Thanks., Jay
well as explained in another thread by bfr1992t:
The ignitor doesn't get one signal for one fire, it needs the correct combination of the 3 signals to fire the correct coil, the diodes assure the correct combination is given without letting the signals get crossed because there wired to the same pins.
This as at least my understanding of the circuit, if i am wrong, someone please correct.
About that calibration file, has anyone else noticed you can only input whole numbers to a calibration file?
Im referring to the AUX inputs, you create a table with values so that you can display the data with correct values on the gauge display screen. The only problem im having is i have to input a whole number, if i put in say "10.5" it will change it to either a "10" or a "11" witch throws off the table.
bfr1992t;1296551 said:
The ignitor doesn't get one signal for one fire, it needs the correct combination of the 3 signals to fire the correct coil, the diodes assure the correct combination is given without letting the signals get crossed because there wired to the same pins.
This as at least my understanding of the circuit, if i am wrong, someone please correct.
About that calibration file, has anyone else noticed you can only input whole numbers to a calibration file?
suprahero;1408225 said:
Im referring to the AUX inputs, you create a table with values so that you can display the data with correct values on the gauge display screen. The only problem im having is i have to input a whole number, if i put in say "10.5" it will change it to either a "10" or a "11" witch throws off the table.
nosechunks;1408234 said:
i will look more into this...being that i run a dis-4 i never really got my hands on the stock system but i will let you know what i turn up
Ahh i was wondering how you were running yours, a DIS-4 explains that.
Think you could check out that translation file?
Think you could check out that translation file?
heres the only problem with:
is that the stinger does give out 3 signals at a time it is a sequential firing system meaning it goes in order of 1, 2, 3 and 4 if your using it....nor does the stinger need a confirmation signal to fire so even if there was a miss fire it would still go 1, 2, 3......the comment he made may make sense for the stock ecu but not for the 4424
is that the stinger does give out 3 signals at a time it is a sequential firing system meaning it goes in order of 1, 2, 3 and 4 if your using it....nor does the stinger need a confirmation signal to fire so even if there was a miss fire it would still go 1, 2, 3......the comment he made may make sense for the stock ecu but not for the 4424