7M BHG repair and rebuild
- Thread starter Supradude7mgte
- Start date
oohhhhh!!
wobble wobble squeak squeak... damn man. sorry to hear. im still in the process of swapping in a new 7m as a result of that day like 3 months ago. good luck whatever you decide to do!
wobble wobble squeak squeak... damn man. sorry to hear. im still in the process of swapping in a new 7m as a result of that day like 3 months ago. good luck whatever you decide to do!
yeah it was the original motor with 164000 on it, whole thing was bleeding oil everywhere constantly.. then the crank snout got all mucked up at the keyway, and im sure the lack of harmonic balance prolly messed up the bearings along the crank. i also think i had crankwalk as a result of it. it was bad. must have been shakin around like that for a while and i never noticed, until it got super bad and just fell off like they do.
your engine looks to be in MUCH better condition thatn mine tho, so maybe your internals will be fine. but now, the only question is: is your crank snout fucked up bad enough at the keyway that you need a new crank? if so, youre pulling the motor either way. ive heard of dudes haveing it welded and machined, so talk to the shop its at about it. post a picture of your keyway and the shape its in too. somebody with more knowhow than me should be able to give you sound advice.
i truly feel for you man. its such a small thing to ruin a whole damn engine. hopefully yours isnt that bad!!
your engine looks to be in MUCH better condition thatn mine tho, so maybe your internals will be fine. but now, the only question is: is your crank snout fucked up bad enough at the keyway that you need a new crank? if so, youre pulling the motor either way. ive heard of dudes haveing it welded and machined, so talk to the shop its at about it. post a picture of your keyway and the shape its in too. somebody with more knowhow than me should be able to give you sound advice.
i truly feel for you man. its such a small thing to ruin a whole damn engine. hopefully yours isnt that bad!!
hard to really tell how bad it is from that picture.. what shape was the woodruff key in? mine was in 3 pieces when i took the pulley off!
the shop really told you 20% retarded? do they mean 20 degrees?
all that is, is just adjusting it properly, and setting it all up right. but if your crank pulley wobbels, you'll NEVER get the timing right anyways.
best of luck to you though, its a learning process and sometimes it just takes some extra time and money to get it right.
all that is, is just adjusting it properly, and setting it all up right. but if your crank pulley wobbels, you'll NEVER get the timing right anyways.
best of luck to you though, its a learning process and sometimes it just takes some extra time and money to get it right.
Rennat;1192312 said:
yeah, 20% off, just to have the timing appropriate for the motor to run.
hopefully they can fix the crank pulley pin and key way so that the timing can be regulated correctly. i also believe that it started to "self adjust" as i was driving it home from the shop before the incident. thats why it did that.
w/o fixing the keyway, the pulleys are just gonna keep throwing keys. dont drive it w/ the keyway like that man. the vibration in the crank from the harmonic balancer wobbling will ruin your bearings!
contacted the shop today( long story on how this is taking forever)
anyways head tech said that the exhaust cam was "locked up" so.........
i'm leaving town in a week, and not coming back till christmas day, then leaving again the 2 of jan. hopefully they work fast.:3d_frown:
anyways head tech said that the exhaust cam was "locked up" so.........
i'm leaving town in a week, and not coming back till christmas day, then leaving again the 2 of jan. hopefully they work fast.:3d_frown:
srry to hear all this going on. the build was so good up until this sadness.
keep a high spirit!
keep a high spirit!
Yeah...with it being near the holidays, "working fast" doesn't seem to go hand-in-hand with it. But hey, you still have the Rabbit. LOL 
hahahah, i hate that car. its like driving a stick shift microwave.
but no. really sad news now. it was corrected that it was the intake cam that was siezed up. the valve covers were removed, metal shavings everywhere, then noted the rear two cam journals were fried. no oil was getting to them, and the head is now garbage.
so i have to rob the head off the N/A 7m that i have sitting in the storage, resurface it, ill replace the valve seals on it, i will leave the N/A cams on because this car is gonna be sittin around 400hp so it won't hinder the performance, and do everything all over again.
i will check the condition of the crankshaft keyway, and if needed weld the bad side and file it down. then drop in a new key, cps and head.
and of coarse i will be posting everything as it goes along.
wow i really love how this is turning out:cry:
guess im not sleeping this christmas:icon_bigg
but no. really sad news now. it was corrected that it was the intake cam that was siezed up. the valve covers were removed, metal shavings everywhere, then noted the rear two cam journals were fried. no oil was getting to them, and the head is now garbage.
so i have to rob the head off the N/A 7m that i have sitting in the storage, resurface it, ill replace the valve seals on it, i will leave the N/A cams on because this car is gonna be sittin around 400hp so it won't hinder the performance, and do everything all over again.
i will check the condition of the crankshaft keyway, and if needed weld the bad side and file it down. then drop in a new key, cps and head.
and of coarse i will be posting everything as it goes along.
wow i really love how this is turning out:cry:
guess im not sleeping this christmas:icon_bigg
sweet jesus.. sounds like buying a motor would be the best bet. truly unfortunate series of events here.
good luck dude. im surprized youre staying supra lol
good luck dude. im surprized youre staying supra lol
if i were to pull the motor, drop the crank, throw in the one from the other motor, new bearings, arp rod bolts, replace the rods, clean it real nice, lap the head, new rear main seal, oil pan seal, check the water pump, then with the head replace the valve seals, valve job, and the N/A cams.
and then a metal head gasket, see if i can find arp studs for a dec price, maybe see if i can find some better valve springs and lifters( whatever is in the limited budget), and a new crank pulley as well as all around belt tensioners and check the other wheels and power steering pump.
with all that, because of the N/A cams changing the power band to more of a mid range rather than higher end, and the upgraded valve train as well as the lower end, i would be able to up the boost correct?
what can i boost up too??
i don't have the upgraded fuel pump yet, but i have 550 injectors.
so a new 255, what are my possibilitys with my ct26?
and then a metal head gasket, see if i can find arp studs for a dec price, maybe see if i can find some better valve springs and lifters( whatever is in the limited budget), and a new crank pulley as well as all around belt tensioners and check the other wheels and power steering pump.
with all that, because of the N/A cams changing the power band to more of a mid range rather than higher end, and the upgraded valve train as well as the lower end, i would be able to up the boost correct?
what can i boost up too??
i don't have the upgraded fuel pump yet, but i have 550 injectors.
so a new 255, what are my possibilitys with my ct26?