1UZ into my MKIII

[cjsupra90]

so it's tuesday, running yet?

No not yet. Im having some issues figuring out how to hang the forward exhaust section. Basically Im running 3 mufflers, the first is a Magnaflow dual inlet / dual outlet with a built in X-pipe that is in the tunnal and then two mufflers behide that one under the real seat area (kinda like Ian's setup or atleast old setup as I haven'y keep up to much lately and dont know if he changed it since then).... I think Im going to have to pull up the carpet and then weld a few brackets to the floor board in the rear seat foot area...

I anticipate this more then that thread with this guy named Dave running the show >_>

What thread are you talking about here?

 

[Wiisass]

No, not all the way to the wheels, just two short lines to go from the M/C to the proportioning valve. they are only 15" long. I understand your thought of flex in them but I dont really see it as a problem as much as one might think. I have seen many factory cars using them off the master cylinder in short runs even some pretty high end cars... I think though that later on, I might end up going back and bending new metal lines once the dual M/C setup is done. For right now the braided setup should be fine. We'll see though....

You can get away with short runs. So what you did should be alright. But I wouldn't do any more than that. I've just seen some people try and plumb all the way from the master/proportioning valve to the wheels and then wonder why the pedal feels like crap.

Did you decide what you're going to change the pedal ratio to? I've been trying to decide what I was going to do with the brakes. Whether grab that old toyota truck booster or do something like this or just go to a real pedal setup. For me, it's going to depend on the rest of the brake system. Like you, I want to have a pedal box and dual master cylinders and all that fun brake adjustment, but I'm not going to put that in until I figure out the rest of the braking system. So I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. But either way, I'm going to have to move around some lines in the engine bay because I had to move some of them out of the way when I went to fit up the motor.

 

[cjsupra90]

You can get away with short runs. So what you did should be alright. But I wouldn't do any more than that. I've just seen some people try and plumb all the way from the master/proportioning valve to the wheels and then wonder why the pedal feels like crap.

Did you decide what you're going to change the pedal ratio to? I've been trying to decide what I was going to do with the brakes. Whether grab that old toyota truck booster or do something like this or just go to a real pedal setup. For me, it's going to depend on the rest of the brake system. Like you, I want to have a pedal box and dual master cylinders and all that fun brake adjustment, but I'm not going to put that in until I figure out the rest of the braking system. So I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. But either way, I'm going to have to move around some lines in the engine bay because I had to move some of them out of the way when I went to fit up the motor.

Yeah, its just short runs (one for the front circuit and one for the rear)... Deffinitly would never run the entire circuit with braided line. I had drove and old ford hotrod pick-up once that had a really good brake setup but they plumbed it entirely with SS braid. You could really feel the swell as you got on the brakes harders....... They later on went and bend up hard lines for the entire truck.....

As for the pedal ratio, I've modified it to be 6.7:1... From all the calculations that I came up with, it should give a very slight bit heavier effort for the same line pressure with the booster and stock 1" M/C bore.. I like slightly heavier pedal then what I had. If its to much, I have my choice of 13/16, 7/8, or 15/16 bore M/C's that will bolt on so fine tuning it shouldn't be much an issue.

 

[AutOtaku]

i like the white, crazy swap ;S but whatever makes you happy. I enjoy the 7m just because it's a beast xD but hey, whatever makes you happy

 

[cjsupra90]

i like the white, crazy swap ;S but whatever makes you happy. I enjoy the 7m just because it's a beast xD but hey, whatever makes you happy

7M a beast??? The early stock UZ's make the same power and more torque as a stock 7M-GTE ontop of this, the UZ is making over 215ft/lbs of torque at as low as 1700RPM and is still over 200 by redline. Later UZ's with VVTi are making 300hp stock N/A.

Oh and the UZ's are far lighter too... which no matter how you look at it, is better for all around performance (acceleration and handling).

 

[IJ.]

CJ: I did the Datto a little different I used 2 x single circuit masters side by side for front/rear, I was going to use a mechanical balance bar between them but ended up using a proportioning valve instead.

 

[cjsupra90]

CJ: I did the Datto a little different I used 2 x single circuit masters side by side for front/rear, I was going to use a mechanical balance bar between them but ended up using a proportioning valve instead.

Ian, thats my plan eventually but for right now, its just the stock M/C... Once the car is running and drivable for a while, I will finish the design of a side by side dual M/C set up and will probably go the route of a ballance bar.

This set up with the stock cylinder is just temporary unless it works out well but once the rear BBK is done, I think that the dual cylinder set up will be easier to tune the pressure cause of having the ability to change one M/C bore size and not the other.

 

[cjsupra90]

Small short update. The exhaust is 95% done, but finished for the time being. I ran out of pipe so it is a little short but its going to have to do for right now as I have exhausted all my funds for the swap. I should have everything else though that I need to finish everything and get the car running.

Today's aggenda is to finish the brakes (just have to flush and bleed them) and do all the wiring and if there is still time, finish up all the other little odds and ends...

I'll probably have a few exhaust pics later to see what was done if anyone is interested....

 

[cjsupra90]

Ok, kinda been slacking on updates here but anyways, its done and running with some bugs and tuning to be worked out. One of the bugs that needs some attention is the Brake Master Cylinder. The stock 1" bore is a bit to big thus causing more pedal effort then I predicted. Its not bad but its still a bit harder then I wanted. Im gonna pick up a 7/8" bore and give that a try. Should make somewhat of a noticable differance in pedal effort.

The exhaust is a bit short cause I ran out of material to finish it and will have to worry about that at a later time. One thing that I dont like with the exhaust is the primary muffler is a bit low and I know its gonna catch on speed bumps :3d_frown: I might have to eliminate that one and just put an X-pipe in its place being that that is the one that has a built in X-pipe. Its a 5" X 8" case and its tucked as tight into the tunnel as I could get it. I only have about 1/4" clearance between the muffler and the center support bearing.... If the car wasn't lowered, it would probably be fine....

The base tune isn't to bad but still needs quite a bit of adjusting. I am getting some noticable knock is areas that I wouldn't expect it to knock so I have to figure out what thats all about. Could be a combination of to low of octane being that the tank is half full of 87.. On top of that, the intake mani had some pretty bad carbon build up so Im sure the combustion chambers are pretty bad too.. Time for 93 octane (being that thats what a normal lexus calls for) and some seafoam action.....

Here are some pics that I have now... We did a short vid of it when I had stopped by a buddies house this afternoon when I took if on it first little drive. He was having a problem getting his PC to connect with the vid camera so I dont have access to the vid yet. Hopefully sometime this evening....

Yes, I know the subframe is nasty as shit... Next project is suspension rebuild cause the front is shot form all the oil the old 7m was leaking. At that point, the front sub is comming out and getting cleaned very well....

 

[sthmstr]

Kudos for the awesome build!!! Truly an ispiration!! I have a 88 that I am doing a swap on too.

How is it vs the 7mgte? Faster?

 

[NashMan]

nice exhuast and nice tig work

 

[mk3design]

Where did you get the steel?

 

[cjsupra90]

Kudos for the awesome build!!! Truly an ispiration!! I have a 88 that I am doing a swap on too.

How is it vs the 7mgte? Faster?

Thanks man....... I would have to say deffinitly faster then a stock 7mgte... It kinda hard to really tell cause the torque is instantaneous and there anytime you want it. No waiting for turbo to spool. First gear even with a 3.73 rear end is almost pointless. Even with a poor tune on it right now, it lights up the rear tires with anything more then 1/2 throttle. Granted the tires aren't the greatest on the car but still.... Another problem with mine is the diff needs to be rebuilt...

Overall, I would have to say that it should be easily faster the at least a stock 7mgte by far. Afterall, the 1UZ makes more HP and TQ then the 7mgte and its lighter too. So more power in a lighter package should equal faster car...

 

[cjsupra90]

nice exhuast and nice tig work

Nash, Thanks for the compliments.....

 

[cjsupra90]

Where did you get the steel?

All the Stainless???

If so, then here is the brake down,
I had the SS347 flanges laser cut at the place I used to work at. We built turbines and exhausts for Gas Turbine and Nuclear generators and it was all SS347 wire a bit of Inconel here and there.
The SS304 piping for the heards came from Columbia River Mandrel Bending ( http://store.racing-solutions.org/ )
And the 2.5" SS304 piping for the exhaust came from a local place here by me..

 

[Chambers]

Nice swap, It looks like a load of fun!! How does that thing fair with stopping without the brake booster?

 

[sthmstr]

Thanks man....... I would have to say deffinitly faster then a stock 7mgte... It kinda hard to really tell cause the torque is instantaneous and there anytime you want it. No waiting for turbo to spool. First gear even with a 3.73 rear end is almost pointless. Even with a poor tune on it right now, it lights up the rear tires with anything more then 1/2 throttle. Granted the tires aren't the greatest on the car but still.... Another problem with mine is the diff needs to be rebuilt...

Overall, I would have to say that it should be easily faster the at least a stock 7mgte by far. Afterall, the 1UZ makes more HP and TQ then the 7mgte and its lighter too. So more power in a lighter package should equal faster car...

Sweet! For sure an inspiration. I am having my flywheel machined now and was planning to make my own adapter plates kinda like the TC performance ones. I figured the behavior of the 1u would make me alot happier, with the torque and all, but it's way cool to hear someone's personal experience. Where did you get the hydraulic bearing? How much? What clutch are you using. (sorry if this was in your post earlier, but I couldn't find it)

 

[cjsupra90]

Nice swap, It looks like a load of fun!! How does that thing fair with stopping without the brake booster?

Thanks Cham.... Stopping isn't to bad. It is a little heavier on the peddle effort then I was expecting but Im getting use to it pretty quick to. You do have to remember that I changed the peddle ratio so its not just simply a removal of the Booster... Im gonna in the near future here probably right after christmass swap out to a 7/8" bore master cylinder as this will give me more line pressure for the same given peddle pressure, thus more clamping force for the same peddle effort / pressure.

Where did you get the hydraulic bearing? How much? What clutch are you using. (sorry if this was in your post earlier, but I couldn't find it)

The bearing a s Howe Racing unit (#87840 IIRC, I'll have to dubble check though). I ordered mine through Summit Racing, It was like $150 I think...

The clutch is a Spec Stage 3 clutch for a MR2. Im not a big fan of Spec but A friend had it and sold me the PP, Disc and Flywheel for $50 total. It only had about 75 miles on it.. So $50 for an aluminum flywheel, disc and PP with only 75 miles is a steel if you ask me even if it is a Spec setup.

What trans are you trying to run that you want go with a TTC performance style adapter?

 

[sthmstr]

The bearing a s Howe Racing unit (#87840 IIRC, I'll have to dubble check though). I ordered mine through Summit Racing, It was like $150 I think...

The clutch is a Spec Stage 3 clutch for a MR2. Im not a big fan of Spec but A friend had it and sold me the PP, Disc and Flywheel for $50 total. It only had about 75 miles on it.. So $50 for an aluminum flywheel, disc and PP with only 75 miles is a steel if you ask me even if it is a Spec setup.

What trans are you trying to run that you want go with a TTC performance style adapter?[/QUOTE]

Super cool on the bearing. i was kinda thinkin I would change my clutch type over. I am using my R-154. I am having it upgraded and rebuilt right now so it should be set for 800+ to the wheels. The TC kit uses the 1/2J series bolt pattern. I still have my 7M bellhousing that I kinda want to use. Although if I can do the hydraulic bearing I may just rock the 1u bellhousing and make an adapter plate kinda like the Thor racing.

 

[NashMan]

i wounder if the 3uz whould drop in if you got tired of the 1uz

i think the 3uz is the best of the series one is glass and shit and just crap forgtet witch one


but whould yae