1UZ into my MKIII

[pogoism9]

i wounder if the 3uz whould drop in if you got tired of the 1uz

i think the 3uz is the best of the series one is glass and shit and just crap forgtet witch one


but whould yae

1UZ 89-94 = 4.0L, alum block,thick rod 256hp/260tq
1UZ 95-97 = 4.0L, alum block,thin rod 261hp/268tq
1UZ 98-00 = 4.0L, alum block,thin rod, VVTI 290hp/300tq
2UZ 98-05 = 4.7L, iron block, thin rod 271hp/315tq
3UZ 01-09 = 4.3L, alum block, thin rod 300hp/325tq

The early 1UZ is the strongest of the bunch, also being the nest candidate for forced induction due to the size difference in the rods.

In terms of money, from what i have gathered, the cost scales as such:

1UZ 89-94
1UZ 95-97
1UZ 98-00
2UZ 98-05
3UZ 01-09

The 2UZ and 3UZ can get VERY expensive, while the early and mid 1UZ are damn near dirt cheap.

In addition, as far as I know, the 3UZ is equipped with anti-theft, similar to the Ford PATS system, where the ECM, key, ignition cylinder transponder, and a seperate Theft control unit all have to be together, or the vehicle will not start.

The 2UZ, while packing more torque and a marginal gain in hp, is a heavy pig. So that throws that one out the window, as an early 1UZ with less power will give roughly the same performance in vehicle as the larger, iron blocked 2UZ.

the 1UZ and 3UZ are 6 bolt main engines, while the 2UZ is 2 bolt. Also of note, the 1UZ uses 2 studs on each side of the crank, and a bolt through the block on each side, while the 3UZ is all bolts. The 1UZ fasteners are stronger, due to them being studs.

My opinion? Go 89-94 1UZ. Then if you want to boost, you have a nice and solid backbone to work with.

 

[sthmstr]

Other things that may be more/ less attractive is the compression. First gen 1u's have the lowest also so pogoism9 has it right for another reason with the forced induction. Nice thing about the 3u is the increased displacemnt (4.3) and the coil on plug instead of the dual distributors. Generally the first and second gen !uzfe can be had for between $600 and $1000 unlike the 3 to 6 grand for a 3uzfe.

2u is a cast iron truck motor you find in the Landcruiser an what not. Very heavy and no fun for Supras. Be almost as dumb as puttin a Chevy 350 in it. Although not as dumb cause it wouldn't be a pushrod pos from the 1920's. haha.

 

[pogoism9]

I just bought a complete 1UZ 89-94 out of an SC400 which consisted of:

long block
upper and lower intake
alternator
full unmolested harness

Engine had no pan. (I didn't need one anyway)

I paid 200 bucks, and the motor has roughly 80K on it. Not too bad for a motor that has an average life of 500K. Once I get the VIN off of the plate on the block i'll verify mileage. If you are near the VA/MD area, I can point you in the the direction of someone who is MORE than reasonable on 1UZ's. Hell, he has a couple of 2JZ's out of SC300s as well.

Oh, and you should use the word "distributor" lightly on the 1UZ. The distro is actually just a metal ring that bolts to the head. The cam gear drives each rotor, and there is a plug in for the coil that fits in the metal ring. Hardly conventional.

 

[sthmstr]

Very nice deal!! You don't need the oil pan? already have 1 or doing a dry sump?

 

[pogoism9]

Very nice deal!! You don't need the oil pan? already have 1 or doing a dry sump?

Already had one from the engine that i trashed.

 

[Isphius]

2u is a cast iron truck motor you find in the Landcruiser an what not. Very heavy and no fun for Supras. Be almost as dumb as puttin a Chevy 350 in it. Although not as dumb cause it wouldn't be a pushrod pos from the 1920's. haha.

At least you can get affordable aftermarket parts for a 350. And make a lot of power. An lsx mk3 would actually be a badass project.

 

[sthmstr]

Already had one from the engine that i trashed.

Sweet.

 

[sthmstr]

At least you can get affordable aftermarket parts for a 350. And make a lot of power. An lsx mk3 would actually be a badass project.

Although still pushrod, the LS series are way different than the "350". They are great motors, so don't get me wrong but they don't have the refinement of the 1u. It is far and away a better designed motor.


Realistically though with sites like lextreme.com you can get anything you want, so why bother with a Chevy motor? Besides interbreeding of cars is just not right.

 

[Isphius]

Although still pushrod, the LS series are way different than the "350". They are great motors, so don't get me wrong but they don't have the refinement of the 1u. It is far and away a better designed motor.


Realistically though with sites like lextreme.com you can get anything you want, so why bother with a Chevy motor? Besides interbreeding of cars is just not right.

what exactly is refinement? DOHC? what is better about the design? I can understand over the 350 yes but not really any of the later designs

 

[pogoism9]

what exactly is refinement? DOHC? what is better about the design? I can understand over the 350 yes but not really any of the later designs

fully balanced from the factory, forged rods, etc. The true answer to your question is in the video i have linked.

Youtube Link

THATS refinement.

Added bonus! Someone hacked up a GT4 and put a 1UZ in it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5C0veAb-CiM

 

[sthmstr]

Pogoism9 has alot right. Factory balanced, forged crank, forged rods. A stock motor that WILL handle 800hp to the wheels. And yes DOHC is better than just OHC. THat's why the only 2 companies in the world that still cling to that arcahic relic of automotive history are Chevy and Dodge. Apart from the C6R in Lemans and the few in Rolex series there are no real forms of racing that use pushrod(yes AssCar is not impressive racing).

Again I don't think anything wrong with the LS series motors. Just that there is really no further you can take them than what they are now. Valve angles, and less resistance on head components, better combustion chamber design, more valves, progressive alve timing, faster, higher revs are other reasons that DOHC are superior. Apart from the fact you can buy Bolt on mods for just about every option in your local autoparts store, there is no advantage of the LS motor than any OHC v8.

Of what's consiered a "Super Car", how many use pushrod engines? 2? How many of them are DOHC?

 

[Isphius]

I never said that OHV motors are better i just wanted to know how its more refined. If you want to compare, the true measure of efficiency for an engine is torque per liter, NOT hp. And the ls1 and 1uz are quite well matched on both. And with your supercar theory, how many use I6s as opposed to v motors? Even with all the "advantages" of the i6? thats a totally useless comparison. Besides all that, I still like the 1uz for what it is. And i would like to put one in a mk3 one of these days. Possibly the later vvti version. Thats what the mk3 needed from the factory all those years. At least in the NA models

 

[IJ.]

Back on topic guys..... :nono:

don't make me warn you again

 

[cjsupra90]

Just to clearify something here. Yes the UZ are ballanced and blueprinted from toyota, Yes they do have Forged cranks. No they do not have forged rods or pistons. The forged rods and pistons part is a typical internet myth. The later motors (VVTi ones) do make more power but they aren't as durable. Toyota made the rods thinner for starters and the pistons had changes too like thinner rings and ring lands too. This is all documented in the TIS......

Rods break pretty easily for starters and the pistons don't handle detonation at all. Even minor Ping has been known to crack rings and ring lands. Detonation and over reving has been known to also bend and break rods too on these motors. There was also an increase in compression ratio with the later motors. A later VVTi engine is a great choice if you dont mind leaving it stock.

I'm trying to find a set of VVTi heads to do a little bit a research and testing with them. Its been said that they cant work on an early (non VVTi) engine due to valve to piston interferance when the VVTi advances unless new custom pistons are made. I have not been able to find any proof of this yet. I think most people are stating this based on thoughts due to the fact that VVTi pistons have valve releaf that are different from NON VVTi pistons. I have not seen any comparison of compression height between the two pistons for starters and also any comparison of the dish area either.... I had a chance to get a set of complete VVTi heads a while back for $400 but I didn't have the cash and once I had the extra cash, they were gone.....

 

[NashMan]

1UZ 89-94 = 4.0L, alum block,thick rod 256hp/260tq
1UZ 95-97 = 4.0L, alum block,thin rod 261hp/268tq
1UZ 98-00 = 4.0L, alum block,thin rod, VVTI 290hp/300tq
2UZ 98-05 = 4.7L, iron block, thin rod 271hp/315tq
3UZ 01-09 = 4.3L, alum block, thin rod 300hp/325tq

The early 1UZ is the strongest of the bunch, also being the nest candidate for forced induction due to the size difference in the rods.

In terms of money, from what i have gathered, the cost scales as such:

1UZ 89-94
1UZ 95-97
1UZ 98-00
2UZ 98-05
3UZ 01-09

The 2UZ and 3UZ can get VERY expensive, while the early and mid 1UZ are damn near dirt cheap.

In addition, as far as I know, the 3UZ is equipped with anti-theft, similar to the Ford PATS system, where the ECM, key, ignition cylinder transponder, and a seperate Theft control unit all have to be together, or the vehicle will not start.

The 2UZ, while packing more torque and a marginal gain in hp, is a heavy pig. So that throws that one out the window, as an early 1UZ with less power will give roughly the same performance in vehicle as the larger, iron blocked 2UZ.

the 1UZ and 3UZ are 6 bolt main engines, while the 2UZ is 2 bolt. Also of note, the 1UZ uses 2 studs on each side of the crank, and a bolt through the block on each side, while the 3UZ is all bolts. The 1UZ fasteners are stronger, due to them being studs.

My opinion? Go 89-94 1UZ. Then if you want to boost, you have a nice and solid backbone to work with.

the 3uz is the flag ship block but it stock form it's not
this me just saying build killer all toyota car that is the block to start wiht then mix on one year of head i think the 1uz ?

it's just pricey but bigger all toyota added wiht trubo's be sides the v12 witch is not docment that much

 

[cjsupra90]

Nash, there really is no differance between the 1 and 3 uz blocks except for the larger bore of the 3uz... There is also a noticabley less material between the walls due to the larger bore. I haven't heard of any issues with this area cracking yet, but at the same time there isn't really many people push the 3uz's yet to see if this does become an issue. The only differance in the blocks between early vs late is the later (with VVTi) have an area casted in and drilled in them in the front of the valley for oil supply for the VVTi.

As for the 1GZ-FE V12's there is not much differance between them and the early UZ's except for 4 additional cylinders and the block being a 60* V instead of 90* V for the V8's...

A 1GZ is my next A70 swap project in a few years probably. They are not to badly priced right now. A couple of years (2 or 3), the price should be pretty cheap for them.

 

[Isphius]

A 1GZ is my next A70 swap project in a few years probably. They are not to badly priced right now. A couple of years (2 or 3), the price should be pretty cheap for them.

That would be even better! How much power/tq do they make stock? It is more of a "nice" v12 than a powerful one isnt it? Although i think the 1uz is a perfect engine for this car in the first place, nothing beats excess You have it up and running right? any videos?

 

[cjsupra90]

That would be even better! How much power/tq do they make stock? It is more of a "nice" v12 than a powerful one isnt it? Although i think the 1uz is a perfect engine for this car in the first place, nothing beats excess You have it up and running right? any videos?

The 1gz's are only in Japan and Russia AFAIK. Seeing as how Jap engines are limited, Im sure that like many other cars (example Nissan Skyline) its under rated but either which way, its rated at 280 hp and 355 tq... My guess is either its under rated or de-tuned to meet the Japanese Government mandatory standards.

Yes, my car is up and running. Having an issue with minor detonation. I dont know if its really detonating though. I cant hear it at all but the ecu is telling me that its happening. I've pulled a bunch of timing and added fuel and it still shows up so either it electrical interferance being induced into the Knock sensor wiring or its from carbon build up. The intake Mani had pretty bad carbon build up so Im kinda guessing that the combustion chambers are pretty bad too and heavy carbon buildup will cause detonation.... I cant find my damn Borescope so I cant look inside and see. Im gonna seafoam the engine and see if that helps any for starters... Its got to be either cause of carbon build up or EMF cause I noticed yesterday and today that it showed up in logs both at very light throttle acceleration and once or twice while cruising on the highway....

I dont have any vids yet. I personally dont have a video camera. A buddy of mine took a short video last weekend (the first day that I drove it) but his camera is not linking to his or any PC for that matter so I cant up load it yet and neither of us have a memory stick reader on our computers so we cant get it from the memory stick of the camera. He's been out of town this week with work so I cant do anything about it until this comming weekend. Hopefully I'll have a vid or two sometime this weekend. If not, Im sure next week I will cause a fellow V8 supra owner is comming down from TN. this weekend for the holidays (has family in the area) and we are planning a little V8 meet, (him, two other local V8 supra owners that I have done swaps for and myself, plus a couple of friends that have SC400's).... One of the guys with an SC has a video camera and was planning on taping some of the little meet. I'm gonna get him to get some stuff of cars individually too.

 

[MidShipCivic]

I never said that OHV motors are better i just wanted to know how its more refined. If you want to compare, the true measure of efficiency for an engine is torque per liter, NOT hp. And the ls1 and 1uz are quite well matched on both. And with your supercar theory, how many use I6s as opposed to v motors? Even with all the "advantages" of the i6? thats a totally useless comparison. Besides all that, I still like the 1uz for what it is. And i would like to put one in a mk3 one of these days. Possibly the later vvti version. Thats what the mk3 needed from the factory all those years. At least in the NA models

Straight 6 engines have a perfect balance they cancel out vibrations and don't have to use balance shafts to counter act them just like a V12 engine.

This allows it to use lighter internal parts. Being a V or I engine holds little weight it's the inherent design. Then there is packaging that applies to the original chassis it's designed for. In general V engines are more compact.

As for the 1GZ-FE V12's there is not much differance between them and the early UZ's except for 4 additional cylinders and the block being a 60* V instead of 90* V for the V8's...

I don't want to see you as an asinine person, but this is pretty ignorant.

It's not just 4 cylinders more and an angle the engine will have less rotational mass just about everywhere.

 

[pogoism9]

Straight 6 engines have a perfect balance they cancel out vibrations and don't have to use balance shafts to counter act them just like a V12 engine.

This allows it to use lighter internal parts. Being a V or I engine holds little weight it's the inherent design. Then there is packaging that applies to the original chassis it's designed for. In general V engines are more compact.

Heh damn 1UZ is a large one. Its all the fun of a 4 liter V8 with the dimensions of a larger american 8.

As far as the 1GZ goes, If I remember correctly, each bank of 6 is run by its own computer, with a seperate box keeping them in sync. BMW does this as well.

cj, I stand corrected on the forged rod comment.