Search results

I'm most likely going with the pt6766sp journal bearing t4 1.00 divided v-band. If i don't like the feel to that i'll switch to the 0.84 housing. The weirdest thing though...precision says their v-band is 3-5/8" WTF? i'm assuming that's the OD of the v-band so will it work with normal 3"...

thanks for the reply

thanks for the posts guys. gurley: is that a bb unit or journal. which 67mm do you have? the 6766, 6765, 6768. I'm assuming you have the billet wheel?

I am wondering what others think and this question has probably been asked a million times but the threads seem to go off on a tangent. I am thinking about a new turbo. My garrett 35R has broken turbine fins....something, possibly slag from the ebay manifold, got into it so now i can't boost...

diesel turbos are journal and they boost 25+ psi. I think that dude is on crack.

bad wiring somewhere? since this is the standalone section....did you change any thing on the ecu before the no start? did you enable injectors on the ecu? I usually find it's the simple stuff that goes wrong if my car has been running for awhile and it just stops running.

As title says, anyone going to go see global time attack at Infineon Raceway in Sonoma, CA?

“A hundred times a day I remind myself that my inner and outer lives are based on the labors of other people, living and dead, and that I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as I have received and am still receiving.” -Albert Einstein

so...the other day my car broke down and lost the timing belt. dug into it today and found out my oil pump ds pulley is broken. I'm guessing it's fatigue and corrosion related since the broken spots had a lot of rust around the area and the pulley is 20 yrs old. There are no marks...

i would suggest making sure it is flawless mechanically, no leaks, etc. make sure your maintenance is done all the time. then work on power mods. in the end, what are you looking for out of the car?

thanks for the replies guys. i'll try out the suggestions and post what i did.

it's the stock iac. i have tried adjusting the fuel from 60.9kpa to 21.6 kpa and between 400 to 1200 (ie 3x4 matrix) to have an afr of 14.7 or around there and ignition between that range of 12*. idle hunts. i then tried changing fuel and ignition cells 60.9kpa to 21.6 kpa from 400 to 1200...

Need some help with idle. It seems to hunt after i drive the vehicle around for a while. the idle is fine (doesn't hunt) on warm start. I have know idea how to fix that. anyone have an idea?

honestly, ran out of budget. future mode will be ls1 coils after i play with this setup for awhile.

Need to share some excitement. After 2 weeks of fussing with the unit from getting no rpm pickup to no start, the car is now alive! Starts every time but need to give it some throttle initially and slowly bring it down to idle rpm. Now I got to figure out the idle. The box I have is the...

figured it out....wiring issue

no they don't have one for the 7m yet. i heard aem is in beta testing for a pnp unit though. i am using the 30-6050 honda box. so far, the sensors such as iat, tps, coolant temp, and map are reading correctly. I have my crank trigger settings to falling edge which i believe should be right...

hey guys, I am using a series 2 box on the 7m. I was testing out the sync during cranking and noticed I don't have any rpm reading but the ems says it's sync'ed. I'm reading 0-1 cam tooth count and sometimes 0-1 crank count. The question is, why am I not able to get rpm? Thanks!

Ok, thank you much

Ok, there's a 5 speed version and a 6 speed version. Which one should I get and it will work right?