Yes he made about 3 different batches to get it right. the newest batch is suppose to clear the filter housing and use stock return line.
it has bars welded from the turbo flange to head flange so its braced. It started life out as a 1j/2j manifold design. I would like someone to chime in...
yes from what I understand it's in the same place. he just revised the oil return line to work so people wont have to tap the pan. Spoolint78 has one if my memory serves me right.
link to his store
http://zwmotorsports.com/
there is one that keeps almost everything in the place its suppose to be even the battery. But there is a drop down bracket that is need to lower the alternator. Honestly thats the easiest thing of the FFIM so I and many others don't see anything wrong with it as it keeps the stock belt as...
our shop 95 t-100 truck has been doing the same for years with 350,000 on the clock so it works for me. Also the other shop truck a tundra v8 with over 250k missed its timing belt job and popped the engine. They rebuild built it and the insides look brand spanking new.
but i see you arent...
what a joke indeed sorry to hear you had to deal with such "loosers" I will not deal with them in the future and run away faster than sound if they come near me.
Glad to see everythings going on the right track with ya tho!
ngk wires are cheaper than stock yota wires.
80-110 for Toyota wires compared to 55-75 Ngk wires.
but for the next best thing to redline I do use Amsoil as well in my Tundra and change the filter every 6 months or 25k miles. add a qrt and thats it. still clean!
ngk plugs, ngk wires, replace vacuum hoses. hit up titan motorsports or a local parts stores for these parts. other than that dont get another brand unless its Nippon Denso "denso"
I just read your profile as well. You might want to get a factory toyota cap and rotor.
call mike @ champion...
I believe the same as well. IIRC the paxton casings and internals are similar to this and the AM.
Someone did a comparison on those a while back on an lexus site.
well dave and a few others use the absolute bottom of the tank behind the drain plug. Instead of tapping the drain just retap the tank... Either do it that way or the way thats being discussed.
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