Pretty sure that the stock diff is fine until you start topping 700 rwhp (from my reading)..
I dont have actual knowledge to assist you with... but 400-500 should be fine. Just make sure its a LSD and you'll be happy. (Dont think all the NA MK3's came with LSD.. unless it had the "Sport Package")
I went to this site before I did anything and did a lot of reading. Good overall info here (you may have to join to see, not sure)
http://www.supras.com/06/main/index.php
(click into the Tech Centre)
tons and tons of info in there...
I wasn't aware of that! : ) Nice area, thank you!
Heater VSV allows the water to flow through the heater core when it warms up. Its generally vacuum controlled but it has an electronic solenoid on it that is supposed to shut it when your climate control is set to 18 C (coolest.. not sure of the number in F) so that you can run the AC colder...
The exhaust is an amazing upgrade (I was surprised). The Lexus AFM and 550's aren't necessary unless your running an upgraded turbo in my opinion. The stock turbo has a lot of kick, but its wastegate spring pressure limits it to about 6-8 psi. If you shim the wastegate you can reach 10-12 psi...
You need to look at a lot of things.. are your cats on the car still and are they clogged? Is your EGR functioning? It shouldn't have been that much work/difficulty to do the air filter either.. you still have the stock housing? Im running stock housing (adapted for the Lexus AFM) and the OEM...
that reminded me... my son's girlfriend's dad came to pick her up and my car was out front. My son (who will inherit the car when I shuffle off this mortal coil) told me he got out and was walking around it asking "wonder who owns this"...
I have had so many people come over to the car asking...
Ever notice there aren't many 80 T/A's around anymore? My sister had one.. 305 in it and it hopped.. but overall was unimpressed with the cheap thrown together feel of it. Would rather have the 70's version... (as long as you didn't use the bumper spot for jacking up the car.. lol)
I used to be a spy in TFC.. lol.. WoV clan. (old skool). Miss that game!
Havent tried TFC2 though, my kids have and I havent had time for any gaming lately. Gonna take a peek at Forza4 to see whats up with that :)
doesnt matter... with stock hg.. your looking at retorque as a maintenance routine and also just a little less bulletproof. With a properly done MHG and ARP studs you wont have to retorque your head again. And if your pushing your old girl a little harder (especially at 400 HP) I would still go...
The reason I own a MK3 as opposed to a MKIV is simply because the MKIV is more european looking. The MKIV is a better built car overall (as well as newer), however the MK3 has a beefier muscle look about it. I consider my car a Japanese Corvette really. Considered moving into a MKIV instead of...
Well yeah... There is a reason I own a mk3.... If your going to build it yourself, just make sure you do it right. But don't expect to beat a mkiv in 2 weeks. I don't know if I could after 5 years... Lol.
And don't forget that if its your daily driver, you won't have it while its apart
I would avoid 10" up front myself. 8.5 is probably widest I would go simply because it has an odd feel on the road due to tire grooves which effect steering. the 18x10 +38 would probably be a nice wheel for the rear with the 18x9 +38 for the front.
Of course.. my wheel setup has the rear wheels...
best advice I can give you is to sell your Supra and pick up one that had a GOOD 2jz swap with a single turbo. Pick one up for between 6k to 9k and save yourself a ton of money and headache.
The key is... as rustfree as possible (the body can cause you headaches later on if you dont know what to...
Sounds good!
At least the replacement pieces should be easy to get at a decent price later on. If you can do some of the teardown/rebuild to that corner, you should be pretty far ahead.
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