http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?154954-my-s13-coupe-soon-to-be-2jz
Interesting thread, the OP may have info for you...
regarding the headgasket.. if you use ARP headstuds (installed EXACTLY as they instruct) and a metal headgasket... AND the head and block are prepped...
pistons depends on the final HP your shooting for. I have Wiseco forged pistons and polished rods.. generally good for up to 700 HP. (crank)
OEM are apparently good for 500'ish without any issues and are designed a little different then aftermarkets from my experience. Toyota did a lot of...
I have the stock diff on my 88 7MGTE MK3.. just went synthetic in it. Is this one of the diffs that doesn't lock with synthetic?
*the diff used to "howl" a little when not accelerating or decelerating.. that stopped with the synthetic for the most part
There are a lot of solutions, on this subject I would recommend you read people's build threads and decide. Its not just the rad you want to look at if your concerned with overheating. Generally the stock rad is fine, however if you run hard, there is a lot of heat soak in the engine bay for the...
yeah, 23-27k is a good estimate. That 91 is only slightly used.. and very rare.
I remember when the 87 MK3 came out and the salesmen were talking about the twin turbo car in Japan and how it was so awesome... lol.
It was way before Fast and Furious... so most people still thought of speed in...
This video shows the blue smoke at the end of the dyno pulls. I got the same blue smoke after doing a second gear pull when I shifted from third to forth and decelerated....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwYN06w3Nxg
I have a greddy turbo timer... and believe I will be removing it. Thought it would be a good idea, but find its a bit of a pain... unnecessary after having it for 2 years...
Dont forget to warn anyone who is going to drive it (like a tire shop) that it has a turbo timer and not to park it in...
You can get used fenders for about 50 bucks.
The Bumper sits on top of a steel "crumple bar".. (best way I can describe it)
Is fairly simple to get off and it has a foam pad fit into the urethane that may have broke, but not critical.
Overall, almost everything you need to fix that should cost...
Now, how are you controlling your vf. My Lexus AFM screw is all the way in and 1 turn out currently (haven't tested voltage yet as I dont have the car) and I have to check my AFPR (I dont think changing anything on there will make much difference other than risking leaning out a bit). Your build...
the most common BOV for our cars is the HKS SSQL one I believe. I think it covers the whole spectrum and is a good performer. I may be happier with that one, but it would get attached to the hard pipe off of my 3000 pipe I think. (would have to weld on the flange)
Lexus AFM upgrade is tuned correctly. Looking at getting a (BOSCH Turbo Bypass Cut-off Dump Valve 0280142110) as it deals with some of the issues with the stock BOV and is fairly cheap (DM - 80.00)
The AFR's on my car are healthy as in... I dont lean out. I do have an AFPR on the car and it is...
My stock hoses are brand new actually.
mooo... that would be funny.
Now, is the BOSCH Turbo Bypass Cut-off Dump Valve 0280142110 (thats what I believe the full description is) all I will ever need? (staying with 550's and the 57 trim) of is this a shortcut?
The tapping sound turned out to be the HKS EVC-S solenoid. Putting a insulator between it and the firewall because its a normal noise for it apparently.
The current turbo (57Trim CT26) is from Driftmotion actually. Pretty sure I can get the BOV done simple because when I put the HKS 3000 pipe...
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