Search results

All the differences in pressure and temperature kind of makes sense, however, the confusing part to me is the drop in max psi reading of the waste gate. That is spring controlled by my understanding, so regardless of intercooler used I would think flow through the turbo would be consistent...

Intercooler arrived and is installed (what a pain... ) Photos... Basically.. after I mapped it all out and figured the piping it wasn't too bad, however the upper 3000 pipe + the pipe to the fender were off enough that it would have caused me a lot of grief so I didn't use them. Plus the...

After thinking about this... what I am wondering is, how the overall performance is impacted in "real terms". Boost isn't all about pressure (if I understand correctly) its more about air flow. However, the pressure does come into play when considering the turbo as an air pump. So, with no real...

Mine is now under the driverside headlight. You have to have the light up to see it, and the lines have been drawn with black permanent marker so I can see it. Built a bracket for it to go down there. Sits nice and hidden. Wil have pics up when the snow stops. Do you have a photo of your piping...

Hmm, odd then. I took it to redline in second and third, it wouldn't top 7 psi. Wonder if the hks boost controller is metering somehow even though I am running it in display mode only

I'm not fluent enough in turbo/intercooler physics. The wastegate is (normally) sprung activated set to a certain pressure? I thought my 60-1 ct26 had a 10 psi wastegate because that's my max boost with a stock intercooler (not fuel cut related... I never hit that) Trying to understand how the...

Okay.. so after 3 days of fiddle-phuquing got my Driftmotion "plug-and-play" intercooler installed. I had to make a manual to map out the pipes because there is no instructions at all... lol. AFter playing around with the 3000 pipe replacement (which didn't fit properly) and its attached pipe...

I just had the DM intercooler installed (not back from shop yet), just curious.. where did you end up putting the coolant overflow bottle and the oil cooler? Looking at mine with the bumper on, I think I may get an A-Duct (If that's the right name) that would allow airflow through the middle...

At this point I would be taking it to a qualified mechanic. Some of the things you have stated your doing is scaring me. First... you scraped off the old gasket.. but I am wondering how well you inspected the block and head surfaces. The head gasket is the weak point on these engines, if not...

Toyoda?

Could also be the oil cooler. Any puddles under car or is it "wet" under the front of the engine? Smoking conditions?

I wouldn't say it acts up.. but it behaves very oddly depending on air temp outside during cold start. Sometimes it will read max lean, sometimes the opposite. The only thing it does normal is 14.3 - 15.3 during cruise. Somehow the entire system has adjusted so I no longer go into a 10.0 afr...

I have SS brake lines. (well.. ss braided brake lines is more correct) The pedal isn't stiff as f*ck... but there is no pedal "bounce" or fade...

Okay.. research complete... and decision made. Will be doing the HKS F-CON V Pro (in about 1-2 years). Was really leaning towards the Motec (which would be optimum) but even the F-con is overkill for my needs and the Motec would cost me about 3000 more in the end. There are no maps for a 7MGTE...

Make sure the flanges are flat on the elbows. If not... Grind them. Heavy welding tends to warp them and its good to not over stress that area

Done a lot of reading about all of this and decided I will be keeping my brakes as is for now. However, when the rotors wear (probably take 4-7 years with my driving) I will do the BBK at that time (front and back). Would prefer to go Brembo over Wilwood, however I don't think that option will...

I was under the impression I would have to cut the hood latch bar slightly, move the oil cooler and bend the coolant overflow bracket only. I also opted for the genuine hks ssqv4, not the knockoff. I guess we will see what unfolds. If you read that entire thread, someone posted that as well.

The new DM one is plumbed like the stock IC, so he may have been referring to the older one. Thie one has both pipes on the left

No, I agree. Its a good patch but its just a "good" fix to account for the upgrades. Standalone is the only option to really handle the differences imo and from what I read. Deciding on the final stand alone majorly seems to be on who the tuner is. Running for a year on the stock ECU and AFM...

^^ what Indigo suggested. Best to get that perfect.. otherwise its going to be either a long term headache or a short term Supra burn... For what its worth, my car smelt like "burnt plastic" for about 3 days after the build. Of course.. I was leaking oil via the turbo, but it was an odd type...