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sort of. as budda alluded to, with any piggyback, there is no base map....it's a piggyback- it merely modifies the inputs to the ECU to achieve desired results. set up the eman with the proper settings, start tuning....

very interesting. looking fwd to seeing the pix.....

good luck. the problem with aftermarket ROM'd ECUs is that you have no idea what was changed. you may be able to get in touch with TOMS and give the s/n and they may have a record of what was done....or you could get in touch w/reg reimer in calgary and send him the ROM and have him tell you...

they are.

depends on what you want- copper has the max heat transfer, no question. i do agree on longevity....then again, i change plugs in the spring and mid-summer....and my car sees all of 1k mile/yr. i totally agree on the iridium thing....NOT the best choice for forced induction.

or not. copper.

good point. be sure you're using analog 2.....or be sure to scale the output you're using appropriately.

no need to think....the MAFT pro does the speed/density conversion, scaling of the AFM output, data logging, timing monitoring and boost control....among other things.

i've got a pair of 275 nitto 555s if you're interested....

notice the salt spray from the winter tires that were on the car. you would have to be crazy to drive with 275s up front in conditions like that....as the page states- TEST FIT. i.e. drive car in garage, remove existing tires, install 275s on front to see if they'll work.

follow the instructions for the calibration procedure. common problem. readjust the TPS or live with it....it doesn't seem to affect performance. that info is in the stickies here...or here's the link: http://www.fullthrottletech.com/showthread.php?t=2129

i totally agree, there's nothing better than a helical diff.....

drop aaron300 a line... the reality is that it's a combo of a variety of factors- age, design and metallurgy. can those issues be fixed? i don't think so....

not so much facts. it's the age-old cost-benefit thing....sure long tube headers can make a difference in power, but how much do they cost? sure, a k&n makes 2 more HP, but how much does it cost? additionally, consider the added NVH from most power adders.....

my opinion- he SWEARS. no data. no proof. no empirical results....only anecdotal. get on the dyno, get to the strip, perform back to back comparisons....

heh. next time, i won't post anything.... http://www.mkiiitech.com/brokenparts/

If anyone cares, Aaron300 over on SF did a stress analysis on a fried T1 Torsen diff I sent him: (right click, save as): http://www.mkiiitech.com/drivetrain/A70%20T1%20Analysis.pdf

while it can be done, if you need that much fuel you should be looking @ a standalone....IMNSHO....

cornering grip, stopping.

http://www.4cefed.com/275sonfront.html