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http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm http://cylinder-heads.4mg.com/ http://www4.tpg.com.au/users/loats/technical/7mge/headporting.html here are some sites to research on porting. i also think there is some info on to4r.com . you can do this yourself but you have to be sure to...

if you have the time put a weld bead behind the tab ear so it wont bend out easily. our bushings are rubber fused inside a metal tube. the tube with rubber makes a cartridge that is pressed into the arm. the cartridge does not move. the rubber flexes inside the tube/arm. This is why you...

8.4:1 or 8.5:1 cr should be fine. a 1.2 or so hg would make the cr higher if you want it and thicker gasket would lower it down. i would think getting rings that are common either after market or oem size would make it easier to acquire in the future.

well what i was trying to state in my previous post is i would not like the pistons to be 9:1 cr but closer to stock so that if you have to shave a lot off the head as i did and block. Even with a 2mm head gasket it comes out to 9:1 cr. if my ross pistons had not been 8.5:1 (i think) i would...

i dont think having a CR of 9:1 on these pistons would be a good idea. If you have to shave a bit off the block and head that would make the CR even higher. A CR of 8:6 or 8:7 or so would allow us to shave some off the deck and still keep it around or below 9:1. yes you can use a thicker MHG...

O reily can get the nite shade. their computer code is sp999. about $11. doom i thought about doing that and may just to see what it would look like. i even thought about tinting the clears a little bit.

i am running a sp61 with aem and i dont have it completely tuned yet. i have gotten it at 9 psi to 290 rwhp on a dyno dynamic dyno but i have been back to turn up the boost. i have been regularly to 10 psi at 10.5 to 12 a/f and no problems. the timing is a little conservative. i dont know...

i nite shaded the side lamps and installed blinker covers. the flash made the markers appear lighter in tint. they are a little darker. i plan on doing the rear tails too but havnt gotten to it yet.

great mustangman05. i wont need directions there i will just follow your oil leaks to the meet.:icon_razz

June 2nd sounds good for me so far. i will try to be there.

the dip stick leak i had was hard to diagnose because it did not leak when idling. the larger than original o ring i had on the end of the upper tube fit on top of the lower tube that goes into the block. that made my overall length of the tube longer by about 1/2 inch and i put about half a...

thats a pic when my balancer was wobbling around on the snout and ruining my crank. i did put some anti sieze on the snout before instalation but the when the balancer was getting looser and looser i think some oil went under there too.

I just went thru a 3 time engine pull to fix oil leaks. one pull to fix rear main seal. still had leaks to pulled 2nd time to replace trans seals. still had leak and pulled the engine a third time to replace oil pan gasket. still leaked. i had oil from about the middle of the oil pan gasket...

dont you want to admit to that telephone pole that rear ended you last weekend?

If i understand correctly you grind with the stone or flap wheel so it cuts or runs down the length of the rod not the width. from top to bottom. i also did not touch the lower cap or the top of the piston end. the stone will run up and down the rod. that way the cutting marks will run down...

Originally Posted by Boostedstr8six Just for clarification on removing stress risers on the rods; you are actually removing forging laps and not casting flash. Originally Posted by IJ Any grinding/sanding need to be done along the beam of the rod and NEVER across the rod. IJ yea i...

the pep boy was probably talking about the center valley gasket in between the valve covers. be sure to check if the valve cover "set" has the rubber washer grommets for the bolts. bought separately they can be expensive. you will also have to retourque the new ones as a few heat cycles will...

you can destress the rods youself by grinding off the casting flash. then have them shot peened and then have them and all other rotating assebly pieces balanced as mentioned above. remember to give them your timing belt gear too with the balancer so it all can be put together. shot peening...

i take it the center cross member X can be unbolted so us rear wheel drive guys can remove driveshafts etc when we pull our engine. my cars exhaust hits the road sometimes. i wonder how this would be. my car is too low tho.

i cut mine like the oem. i think it is cut on the front side. i also had to dremmel out some material to get the metal tabs to lock back down onto the bushings. i could not even get the passenger side top mount to bolt back down without cutting material out from the inside corners of the...