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Thanks mk3ownZ!

Posting pics of your keys is not really the best thing to do IMO, unless you blur the cuts on the keys. (Stranger things have happened, can't be too careful.)

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Man that is Hollywood!

I need one of the gauges that says that! :biglaugh: (and then the floor flies off and hits me in the face)

I would have loved to hear the excuses they had after that, "Oh well, I had a guy with a cam in my car", "Yeah, and I didn't double clutch it right" Was that a double clutch in the vid, or did he miss the gear?

:drool: Nice!

Thanks Jetjock.

I know my LM-1 has an output to replace the stock O2 output, but I don't feel like risking it.

This is in Huston right?

About 500 or so. Are you going to sonic this week?

fart cans owned

I took her out for drive #3 today. Sorry no vids yet, my B-I-L was not able to go with me this time. I have a wopping 24 miles on her now.....this is going to take forever. No, actually I didn't want to go too far out of range the first few drives, just in case. Now I think I'll start racking...

Ok, now I see what you were saying.

Yep, boiling point has nothing to do with the cooling effect. Plus if your rad cap is not busted it is the main preventer of boiling. Normally water boils at 212°F. However, for every pound of pressure increase, the boiling point goes up 3°F. Typical radiator cap pressure is 12 to 16 psi...

They / we are trying to help, Also, because this topic comes up so often, the info is already here. But you few options, if it truly is knock, you will have to pull it and rebuild it. As Tony pointed out, you can't just throw new bearings in it. You have to do it right. Running it with knock...

CLICK>>>>