Search results

A brand new CPS better have a good internal seal, or I'd take it back. A bad seal inside will leak the same as the O-ring...the difference is it will come from the housing vs where the CPS mates to the block. The way oil goes everywhere on a leak, it might be hard to tell just from looking...

The CPS does not have a gasket (unless you made one)...it's an O-ring around the shaft. If the oil pressure sensor (right under the CPS) is not tight, it will leak.

Leaks like this are not consistent on a re-built motor (with all seals replaced) with 10K on it...a 150K motor, yes, but that is due to a synthetic oil (even a Grp III hydrocracked like Mobil 1) cleaning deposits from worn seals. One thing synthetic oil will do is find a leak if any gasket was...

Ok...now I'm confused. Why did you replace the ECU coolant sensor sensor? A bad ECU temp sensor will put the ECU into one of it's fail-safe modes...the ECU will revert to a constant 80 deg C, which is in the normal ops range (80-100 C). At that point warm-up enrichment shuts down. You didn't...

As long as it was the coolant gauge temp sensor, you'll be fine. The ECU uses a different coolant sensor. Where exactly do you have the boost sensor or it's port located? Might want to be sure what he's talking about first. Makes it more simple for yourself ;)

Fixed that for ya ;) I'd install a full flow T-stat controlled cooler circuit...but, what do I know :icon_bigg

About 5mm should do it ;) If you're using the stock filter head, disassemble the cooler relief and clean the cylinder/piston well...replacing the spring is good insurance. Personally I would install a full flow T-stat controlled oil cooler circuit and eliminate the stock pressure "bleed"...

Idle is fine. It's the 3000 + that's a bit low. A clogged filter will simply go into bypass...you will stop filtering oil, but you will have good pressure. You have my answer in a previous post ;) And this is not it ;) +1 -or- the squirter bolts...but, I repeat myself.

Yep! That's a good one too ;) You'll need the adapter for the stock gauge location...1/8" BSP iirc.

"Then torque back to spec" was what I said. I hope you realize you over torqued those studs (ARP spec is 80 ft/lbs w/ moly)...that is not a good thing. If you had gone to the ARP website and read the link I suggested, you would know that ;)

I don't do vids ;) John at IPT told me it will hold 500-600 HP with no problem.

I sent my auto to IPT for the build: http://www.importperformancetrans.com/toyotaauto.shtml Cost me almost $3K a couple years ago...you can get it done cheaper, but you will get what you pay for ;) Bottom line, yes, a R-154 swap is much cheaper. Fun to drive? Meh. I'll smoke just about any...

Think about this - would Toyota go to the trouble/expense of adding additional clutch plates to the turbo 340E just for grins? Might be for the same reason Toyota used a R-154 in the turbo vs a W-58 in the NA. I do not know of a way to ID a turbo 340E tranny from the outside...maybe someone...

Vs doing a rehash here - take the time to read it, twice ;) BTW - any further swap questions belong in the NA Tech section, not in the GTE Tech section where this thread is.

Different trannys - the GTE version has additional clutch plates. 300-350 HP depending on condition of the tranny - some get reliabile operation with more HP, some less. The NA version will be on the "less side". Can't swap the Mk V auto tranny in without very extensive mods. Read the NA to...

No argument - just pointing it out so when it happens to ya it's no surprise ;) It's really not that hard to have an EGR installed on a FFIM - For example, here's mine: Seth made this one too, so I know it can be done. BTW, you want an ISCV to control idle...you can get away without...

Sure about that slick? ;) http://rzstracing.blogspot.com/2009/09/california-expands-crackdown-on.html You do live in the Peoples Republic of Kaliforina after all.

I know for a fact Castrol Edge is marketed in the UK ;) If it's a true Denso, it will say "Made in Japan"...the crappy version will say "Made in Thailand". Kai - read the filter sticky...if you had, you would see that a K&n is a middle of the road filter. It also lists the various filer...

Time to hook up a mechanical gauge at the sender port so you can really see what pressure its producing ;) Your pressures are in spec Kai, but for a 10W-40 cold it seems a bit low. First thing I would check is the cooler relief valve. Let it idle to warm up and feel the oil cooler...it...

The Autolite 3923 plugs are ISO length...an 1/8" shorter than the plugs spec'ed for the 7M. Can cause misfire issues with plug wire arcing.