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Actually long drives are better for the oil (and the engine) with one exception. If the oil temp gets above it's operating range (>230 deg F) for extended periods, two things happen: 1) Viscosity drops off significantly 2) The additives begin to break down An oil cooler with sufficient...

Clear the codes and drive...then recheck. If the code 52 is still there, it's most likely the wiring and not the sensor itself.

Pretty sure this belongs in the NA section ;) Moved.

Both Red Line and Royal Purple have the friction modifier in the formulation. I would remove the fill plug 1st before I drained it ;)

Check the ground wires on the intake manifold...remove, brush clean and reattach.

Just because it's black does not mean it's dirty...any decent filter will remove 90% of 12-14 micron particulates. A good filter (like the ones you hear me preach) will get 95% of 10 micron size...run a bypass filter in conjunction with the stock one and that drops to 1 micron. If your oil is...

Search this section and you will get the answer you seek ;) Like i said above, change the filter at 4K and you can run GC 8K easy between changes. BTW - black oil does not mean that the oil is worn out...another urban oil myth. Just ask your mechanic.

If you still have a code 51, the ECU will not go into Idle Speed mode...hence the high idle RPM. When you say "bypass valve" what exactly are you talking about? The ISCV on the intake manifold? FYI - by bypassing the stock FP relay and ECU controlled system, you defeated a very important...

Just swap the linkage from your old one, assuming the "new" TB is USDM vs a JDM TB.

The problem here is you are using a harness from a different...you need an '89 harness. The '89 is a mongrel...it's harness is different than other years, but will plug into any '89+ ECU. The reason I mentioned the FAQ? It covers this subject.

You cannot use a rear converter to replace the front. The front converter is there to reduce emissions at idle/low RPM, especially cold...removing it completely should have little effect passing emissions (even in CA). The only thing that could happen is if the smog tech knows it is suppose to...

If you did actually search, you would also know that NA to T swap questions belong in the 7M-GT section. Suggest you read the sticky at the top. Please post in the correct section...thread moved.

Way too soon. Any PAO oil (like GC) or an ester based oil (like Red Line) is good for 8K miles easy...just do a filter change at 4K and add make-up oil. In fact, changing any oil at the 3K point will actually increase wear on the engine...this is backed up by several SAE studies on the...

Check the 100A Alt fuse in the engine bay box.

A 1.2mm MHG is useful on a NA motor ;) At stock CT26 boost a 1.2mm MHG will give a bit more bottom end power. I would not push boost very much (if any) over stock due to the increased dynamic compression that results...you are asking for a detonation event.

^^^ a thinner weight oil for winter use would help ;)

The crank does determine absolute RPM limit (among other things)...a safety margin is built in to prevent exceeding it. The ECU enforces the limit ;)

And what is "tech" about this subject? (It's a hair's breath from being a for sale thread) Thread moved...pay attention to where you post.

The ECU does not like low voltage...causes all kind of mischief. I would have the alternator tested as well.

You should be fine then...that's 0.13mm.