You asked for help to break CA law, and you didn't expect the comments you got...get real. Just because "everyone else is doing it" doest not make it ok and it's damn sure not a justification in the eyes of the law. It's guys like you and the rest of the 1JZ swap crowd that gives the socialist...
Yep RP gear oil is a synthetic. Personally, I would use Red Line in a rebuilt LSD (I did actually on my TRD per above). I went with straight 75W-90, but you can put in a quart of 75W-90 and top off with 75W-90NS. Most of the slipping issues you see with the synthetics is due to guy putting in...
Did an upgrade to one of my AR's - this carbine is a bit of a mutt. It's my primary practice shooter; same weapon me and Dunckel shot at the gun club a couple weeks ago. Here's it's specs:
- Colt SP-1 lower with Magpul MOE grip/stock, Magpul enhanced trigger guard, 5 position Vltor buffer...
Fuel cut is determined by one thing and one thing only - the volume of air sensed by the AFM. That volume is affected by air density - a colder OAT will cause it to occur earlier. If you have a leak in any of your IC piping, the volume passing the AFM will be more than the motor is using...
Don't confuse setting base timing (gears, crank and dizzy pointing at #1) and setting timing advance with a light. Make sure the former is correct 1st, then set with the light.
Yes, those are the correct terminals to jump.
The crank at zero can indicate TDC or 180 degs out. If set correctly to begin with, the cam gears will point at the index marks as previously stated. Otherwise, you need to take out the #1 spark plug, insert a small diameter wooden dowel and turn the crank until the dowel reaches max height...
Is that the same Smartgunner on Gun Broker with the negative feedbacks concerning poor communication or not having an item in hand for an auction? The same for a fair number of positive feedbacks as well...doesn't answer e-mails? The same guy who didn't answer my inquiries (3 on the same item)...
I can tell you with 100% accuracy, it's not the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor may be bad, but it will not cause idle fluctuation.
To the OP - suggest you clear codes, run the car, recheck codes.
It does sound like a big vac leak. I would look at the ISVC for proper operation as well.
Unless you mix two of the same brand...start with one quart of Redline 75W-90NS and top off with 75W-90. A lot of sucess with this one.
I use straight RL 75W-90 on a rebuilt TRD LSD...no issues at all.
Think I already answered that in previous posts ;)
No...it's not "alright" and more importantly is why would you want to do it? 70% coolant to 30% water is about the max you would want to go and that would be for a place that gets very cold. Read the instructions.
Tell me about...
You should always use distilled water...even when mixing up a 50/50 coolant fill.
Redline water wetter is what I would use in a 100% water system...you do not want to use it mixed with coolant. It doesn't play well with certain coolants (Toyota Red is one of them).
The point is moot for...
Anything is possible ;)
Not likely though if the block was properly cleaned during a rebuild. In the OP's case, I would check that the block oil channels are clear before installing it.
Checking the crank (if possible) is a good idea too.
Coolant does in fact increase the boiling point, but the primary factor is the system is pressurized. One problem running pure water is if system pressure is lost due to a leak...instant boil over. The only advantage is water's heat transfer ability...when water's disadvantages are factored...
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