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if there are any codes that exist, even after the ECU is reset, you cannot accurately set timing. Code 51 comes to mind ;)

The ECU ops range is 176-212 deg F. Below that range you are in warm-up enrichment...the ECU adds fuel on a decreasing linear scale to the min temp as the coolant warms up. Above 212 degs, the ECU pulls timing to prevent detonation. Not as severe as inop knock sensors, but it will affect how...

You can hook up a mechanical test gauge at the stock sensor location and check that way. More accurate and faster reading. There is merit to getting pressure using the starter. That will tell you if the system is routed correctly as IJ said...especially important when a remote filter is...

All you need is a pressure indication. Tells you there's oil at the bearings and turbo. ;)

10,500 miles!!! Don't you know that you cant run an oil that long! Think about all the starving kids at Jiffy Lube ;) LOL...those are excellent numbers. I agree with Blackstone, run it 12,500 next time. You gotta love GC :)

It's a primary function on this TPS...tells the ECU when to go into idle mode. And, since we're talking about a 7M here.....

The IDL signal on the TPS is an on/off switch ;)

When oil is warm, it's viscosity is down around 10 cst vs 60-80 cst (or higher depending on OAT) for a 10W-30 cold. Therefore when oil is warm, it flows very well...this is the reason you want as low a viscosity cold as possible so you can get better flow through the system. If the 0W-30 you...

That is a Grp III hydrocracked dino oil, it is not a PAO or ester based synthetic. The only "true" synthetic Castrol sells in the USA is Castrol European Formula 0W-30...it is a Grp IV PAO base. If you are going to use a Grp III, Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 is a far better choice. BTW - "it...

^^^ Not completely accurate ;) TSRM spec's pressure at 4.3 psi or greater at idle...it's 36-71 psi at 3000 RPM. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=LU&P=4 The rule of thumb is 10 psi for each 1000 RPM above idle. The 7M-GTE has a pressure relief valve set...

The key is to have the crank pointing at the zero and the two cam gear marks aligned with the index marks on the back plate.

Must have, or he didn't like the answers. So, here we go again on another wild goose chase of "what if" and "could be". Sorry, but this is getting old fast. A couple of guys offered to take a look at your AEM cal file. Do that or take the car to a different tuner. Or, "give up" and sell the...

Any good straight 30W HD oil. Read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993 WalMart SuperTech oil and filters will work fine for the initial break-in.

And, hell no ;) (7M = top feed...2JZ= side feed)

Gap them at .027".

You posted in a SME section - MKIII TCCS (ECU) & Electrical. All posts are moderated (just like the section says) and will not immediately appear. I deleted that post since you made this thread. Pay closer attention and you just might get an answer ;)

General is the wrong section for JZ questions...thread moved to Other Engine Tech. ANGKlingon - Pay attention to where you post.

1) Check your ECU codes 2) Check your tranny codes (instead of guessing) The line pressure up cable adjusts the "quality" of the shift...more or less harsh.

I didn't say "struggle"...I said you start to lose your safety margin. Big difference. (reading comprehension a problem for you guys?) AN-8 lines will supply all the fuel you need.

^^^ Exactly! The new plugs are useless for any sort of diagnostic. They are damn sure not "washed" down.