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For your diff get fluid without addatives and get the addative seperate. Put the fluid in and see if it makes any noise.. if it does just keep adding a little bit of LSD Addative in till the noise stops. This will help tighten up the LSD a little bit, but its probably pretty worn out.

If they're all working and the light is still on, the sensor box is the problem. The solder joints iirc go bad on them. There are threads on how to go about fixing, it just search for it.

+1

Thats because good rust repair is expensive. Its actually cheaper just to buy a new car.

bought my 92 in Aug of 07, Put a HG on it and been daily driving it since.. put ~ 25k on it since then. Still have my original 91 I bought in march of 02, but it doesn't run anymore and is now parts for my 89 project.

Buy a new rust free shell.

My old 7m and 1j used it stock and I never had a problem. The ecu should switch to 12v far before you're maxing out the pump at the lowered voltage, so you wont notice the switch at all.

If your ecu works correctly (switching to 12v) theres no reason to do the 12v mod unless you like the extra noise of the walbro @ 12v. Its been a long time since I've used a stock ecu, but I think its based on TPS.

I'm pretty sure they're the same. Just have to swap housings (maybe just rotate the Compressor cover if possible) and oil/coolant lines on.

IS300 has a W55 iirc. The MKIV NA and SC300 transmissions have a shifter extension that have the shifter bit back about an inch or so.

sold it, bought a 2j.. sold that too

If you do this Make sure you have the 12v mod done @ the fuel pump relay so your relay wont be tripping the fuel pump resistor on.

I had a manifold similar to that for my old 1j.. It was custom though. I gave it to my buddy since I dont have a 1j anymore.

I reached 140mph with a GTE w/ -10* timing (first got my mkiii running like 7-8 years ago, tps was bad and didn't know it when I set the timing). The car trapped 86mph, similar to a NA car I would assume. Fixing the timing the car trapped 91mph and was much faster at reaching the 140-150mph...

really? I wouldn't think the 30hp would make that much of a difference. My stock turbo car can hit 150 without much effort. It does take a little bit to get there though.

92,91,89 edit: oops forgot my 90.

Probably just old and dead. I wouldn't bother buying a new one though. Turbo times are not needed imo. If you boost the car hard just let it run a few minute before turning off. I usually do a lap around the block and call it a day.

if you have an english tsrm please send it over! But there are not VSVs on the stock wastegates and it runs ~ 10 psi stock, so I'm pretty sure they're 10 psi.

Stock actuators are 10 psi iirc. Its not uncommon to have boost creap with a free flowing exhaust to 12-13 psi, and when its cold it'll easily creep to boostcut.

if the interior is nice, good score.