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Put it on the dyno and find out :icon_wink When it stops making power there is no reason to go much higher in rpm.

gt4082 can be bought directly from Precision with their undevided housing for $999, and it's a better match for a 7M engine then a gt4088. I really don't understand why the gt4088 is getting so much attention, look at the compressor maps and you'll see that the gt4082 is a better choice for...

The two black/red wires in the isc connector (pins 2 and 5) should have 12v switched with the ignition from the efi main relay. The other 4 wires should be checked for continuity to the ecu connector.

My 7m has no problem reving to 7250 with a completely stock head and a similar sized turbo.

This sounds like a wiring issue. The isc may not be wired up correctly through the engine harness to the ecu. I highly doubt the isc is defective. There are many ways to make a wiring mistake on a 1jz harness job and cause all sorts of irritating problems like you are experiencing. Do you have...

My bad, the 1N4001 diodes will work fine. I got mixed up, it's 1N4001-1N4007 you want. The 1N4xxx are all 1amp, and the last digit is the voltage rating. I'm getting rusty on the semiconductor part numbers, I used to know most of them by heart.

I'm lost too, if you lengthened it already, why do you need to twist and solder anything else? You mean like so if you install an AFC or SCD or something later on?

IJ might be able to beat Jay at the track, but Jay's little 1j will deffinately smoke Fatty on the way home....because Fatty will need a tow truck to get home! :biglaugh:

Ok, but the knocking sound you described in the first post I can almost guarantee is not from the turbos. :(

If you just want a longblock, we can get you one for $750 plus shipping. It willl be from a Soarer and it will have a cut engine harness, it will be complete though, including intake manifold and turbos. AC pump might be missing. You would be looking at about $1000 shipped in California.

I can upgrade your ct26 and I just installed our manifold with Tim on his 1jz last night. We couldn't get it running becuase there was more to be done to complete the swap, but he liked the manifold a lot and exerything fit just fine. He had a different downpipe I had not seen before, but it did...

This is an example of why not to do a headgasket replacement without disassembling the bottom end. All that work for 2k miles is not really worth it. With the bottom end apart you would have seen the excessive wear on the bearings, and/or cylinders causing the oil consumption. I'm not saying...

I agree with Barry about the design of the manifold not being well planned out. You will need to make a custom dump tube and space the turbo from the manifold. None of the manifolds on the market seem to be designed to fit well on the mk3 though, they all require some sort of modification, so...

You must not have a transmission on it yet, because the engine is tilted forward. The valve cover is above the lip on the firewall, that's how I can tell. Once you put the trans on and bolt it up the engine will tilt back and away from the swaybar. :wiggle:

It is cool to see new designs and people coming up with fresh ideas, and I am interested to see Nashman's dp.

How was it an attack on you? I disagreed with what you said and I explained why. You proved my point with you explaination about how you got your mechanical fan, and how you came up with the prices you quoted. You got the pump at dealer cost and got lucky on the fan at a wrecking yard. How...

No, the clutch fan works just fine for a 1jz if you don't have complete engine set with a hydrofan, but if you already have a complete hydrofan setup from a clip there is no reason to remove it and install a mechanical fan.

If I didn't say something stupid every few days then you guys would think something is wrong with me.

No, I'm saying if your cats are mean and annoying then...... :biglaugh: