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Sounds more like timing to me. Have you checked to see that all the timing marks line up, #1 on TDC, rotor pointing at the #1 wire, cam gears on the marks, and the crank on the "0"? Other things to check would be the AFM connection, the ECU grounds that connect to the intake manifold.

What kind of sound, knocking, pinging, hissing, gurgling, do woop, r&b, ???

Not suppose to adjust the idle with that screw. It is controled by the ISC and ECU, if it's not idling right then there is something else that needs attention.

Only 600k's not much, maybe it will stop after you get a few more on the motor.

CJ...where ya been?? Taking care of that new addition? I have to agree, he needs to find some help with this. It's mostly simple to us, but it seems the op has a language barrier to over come also.

Have you seen this?http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76403

What I was trying to get across to the OP was that all these have to line up when #1 is at TDC. Apparently he wasn't at TDC when he re-installed the timing belt, not sure as he is having a problem understanding the terms. But you have brought up a good point with the locater pins in the cams.

TDC means top dead center. When the piston comes to the very top. You can pull the #1 spark plug, put a pencil down in the hole, then turn the motor by hand and watch the pencil for it to come to the max and just start to come down. All your marks and rotor on #1 wire should line up then. If...

Put #1 piston on TDC, check with pencil, cam gears on the marks, crank gear on the "0", rotor pointing at the #1 wire.

Which gasket blew? I've used Ultra Black with pretty good results on the manifolds.

When you said you have triple checked the timing, have you also checked the cam timing? I mean verify #1 is at TDC, cam gears are on the marks, crank pulley is on the "0", and the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire? Only thing that I can think of that would cause the "back pressure" to...

Not to mention logging on a laptop.

Keeping an eye on me heh,:biglaugh: I also have a upgraded pump and FPR and you can hear it. The FPR will bleed off pressure when it sits over time, takes a few seconds to build pressure and shut the pump off. Forgot the stock FPR doesn't bleed off. Just thought of something, have you had it...

Number of cyl. should be 6, displacement should be close to 3 liter, the other setting I'm not real sure about I'm NA. Both of your gain settings are at "O" , I'd try 5-7 to start with. TB size might be a little big IDK for sure, some of the turbo guys will probably chime in on the other...

Not too bad to install, turbo's are easier to tune than NA's. Lots of info here on it, check the stickies in the Piggyback section.

Fuel pumps do that. Does it turn off after it builds pressure though?

Go with the Maft-Pro it does a lot more than that does and it looks like smoke and mirrors to me.

Don't know if you have seen this or if the link is working, sometimes it works and sometimes it dosen't. http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/MAFT/Manual%204.80.php

I believe you can set either to zero to turn off PTT. Also I don't think 5.0 is right for the settings. I have my Idle TPS at .54 a little above your idle TPS voltage. The cruise TPS I have at 2.5.

While you are under there check your center carrier bearing for play.