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usdm 550s as stated above.. jdm 440s are a lighter grey.

hm, I see.. thanks for the information, I pretty much figured out the latter just wasn't sure about the Turbo S.

http://www.megazip.ru/ru/auto/toyota/view/452/4039/40747/392859#g393148 another member posted the link above, and I was paging through and saw "Turbo S" and wondered what that was. I have previously never seen or heard of that. Is this common knowledge? The "4-ESC" and "4-ABS" interested me...

O_o

Okay. I'd like to calmly point out that the one on the right is a factory 2JZ idler pulley (the 1JZ units are plastic on all versions I've seen and have worked on). Someone likely changed the part before your time with the motor. As for the one on the left, I've never seen a JZ pulley that...

two GT28Rs is about as good as it gets IMO without standalone, you're looking at ~550cc max injector size, and a piggy back is still needed in order to control that (S/N-AFC). after that, do some 264s, and that's a good street build that should make good power. lastly, all that heat is...

2JZ tensioner includes a metal wheel versus plastic, but it is the same piece for the most part and interchangeable.. better to install/have a new bearing installed into the one you have provided it's the correct part. Mine came off an Aristo motor btw, MKIV is the same.

as hvyman stated, the thing that most people don't realize is that it gets expensive really fast.. 4k is an understatement as far as I'm concerned, though he was just saying that's really the cheapest one can go before cutting corners, but in reality it's a lot more than that from what I've...

I've had the damn code for years at this point, but before someone steps in and says 'what the hell is wrong with you,' I'd like to point out that I've always been fairly easy going on my car, and it was always filled with 93 and ran on stock twins/boost for all that time. Still, I admit that...

you probably went to the one that moved to route 246.. only bike parts exist now at that location. The new location is right next to Tomei Power and is apparently the best one in the area.

this may be of help:http://www.thepointnet.com/Lenticular/Turbo/ it seemed to be appreciated by some others that I've sent it to.. then again, that's for the whole removal not just the front.

did anyone else have that greyish goop inside the engine diagnostic port? I assumed it was a coating to protect the contacts from corrosion, but when I tried to jump the diagnostic connector, nothing happened. I might try again next time I'm under the hood..

+1 ahaha

Momo/Toyota 3-spoke optional wheel / Momo TT-R wheel.. both have the same quick release so that I can switch between them depending on when I feel like. I'm thinking of picking up a deep cone wheel such as the VERTEX, that way I'd have a wheel for everything.

I have 18x8.5+15F and 18x9.5+18R and while I haven't mounted them yet, a 245/275 seems to just fit. My fenders are rolled flat..

Well, it's nice to have that confirmed or answered. I had always wondered why DM would sell a system that did not operate in OE fashion. In any case, I have run different variations of the JZ setups, and they work as well depending on the desired end result.

Has that been confirmed? I assume so, since you're not following it with any indication of doubt..

The LS setup spins reverse rotation afaik, so I never even considered that a viable alternative.. That being said, the GE fanblade clears a Koyo 3-core by quite a bit so long as the blades are trimmed to clear the waterneck. I don't see the Mishimoto being an issue, and most of the time shroud...

2JZGTE clutch and fanblade will work with stock radiator (with or without shroud). 2JZGTE clutch and 2JZGE fanblade will work with aftermarket radiators, but it will need to be trimmed or spaced to avoid hitting the water neck (can be made to work with shroud depending on trimming/spacing).

+1