Search results

^ Oh, I know, but the integrity of the threads were questionable, so I wanted to make sure the fitting was properly seated. Unfortunately, I wasn't used to the feel of liquid teflon at the time, and my normal torque was about 1mm too much. It sucked. Just as soon as I was done tightening I heard...

I need to weld (or replace) the rear timing cover where the turbo's coolant line return goes. The previous owner ran a oil cooled only turbo and welded over the coolant return. I drilled and tapped it for an NPT fitting. The walls weren't as thick as I had thought and now there is a small...

The ISCV for the 1J is different than the 7M's, but it is plug and play on the wiring harness. It should work properly, but can't say for certain that it will. The 7M TPS will not work since the 1J's throttle body's butterfly opens in the opposite direction. Supposedly the 1J's TPS can be made...

Shouldn't hurt to start the engine, but I wouldn't drive it around like that. When it breaks there will be problems. The belt doesn't affect timing, so no issue there. However, it does drive the water pump so when it goes you will overheat very quickly. The belt is an $18 part and a 15 minute...

It is as far as I know. So I guess my problem must be stemming from the 1J/2J TPS sensor. Dammit!

Nobody knows?

Nice. I like how the exhaust cam has a red gear and the intake cam has a blue gear.

I'm using a 1jz ffim. The 1jz iscv uses the same plug as the 7M's. But will it funtion properly?

Did some research and found that the 3SGE TPS is nearly a perfect match to our EFI ECU. So if you're using a reverse opening throttle body, that's the TPS to get.

Finally got the engine started, but it will only idle briefly before shutting off. It appears the factory ECU is making my AF's go from rich too lean with each touch of the throttle. I'm thinking that it might be from me using the 2J TPS (which I wired in correctly). The ECU light does not come...

Whoa! That's dead on for me. LOL. Except for the crappy knock-off ebay crap.

For a complete set of hoses, seems like a good deal. Can't comment on quality though.

Make sure the engine has oil pressure, pull the turbo's oil return line, if oil comes out, your good. You shouldn't have to remove the line. Just start to loosen and the oil will begin to push through the threads.

Quick update. It appears it was several things. First off, my battery was a little low. Upon giving it a full charge my check engine light went out and the VPC's pressure sensor started producing a signal to through SAFC. So that's good. Car fires up fine initially, but then dies after about 30...

^ For sale threads, Ebay, Junk yard, etc. Hell, I have an unused semi-polished SupraSport Lipp AFM with adjustment screw I'd be willing to part with. I'd want what I paid for it though. Which cost twice what a dirty Lex AFM would run.

^ Absolutely. Only way I could keep it from fraying. Also, if you don't have a vise handy, a couple of hose clamps works wonder when pushing the fitting on.

^ Airhose is great for those who own a compressor. I don't. :(

I know after I was done cutting my braided lines to size with a dremel wheel, there was plenty of metal shavings and rubber pieces left inside. Not good for fuel lines. So I bent each braided line in a "U", poured in 90% isopropyl alcohol, and shook it around to loosen all the rubber and metal...

Yeah, one is tweaked a little, but actually not too bad. Not enough to damage the wire and better than having nothing at all. ---------- Post added at 09:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:50 PM ---------- ? No issues there. Just couldn't understand what the TSRM was refering to...

^ Really, my coils show nothing. The wire caps have groups of dots from 1-3, but mine are scavenged from other vehicles so I have one 1 dot, one 2 dot, and four 3 dots. So that's not much help.