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Did you remove the fuel rail dampener?

If priming really is the issue here, and that is not clear at all, then remove the oil filter and pump some oil into the fitting. The filter is next in line after the pump. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=LU&P=2

Remove the CPS from the engine but leave it connected. Hook up a sparkplug to one of the ignition wires and ground the plug body with a piece of wire or whatever works for you. Turn the ignition on and spin the cps by hand. You should see some healthy sparks at the plug. No sparks, means you...

Follow this link to order a schrader fitting for your cold start injector fitting to make fuel pressure check much easier. http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16215

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?183939-Ridiculous-1000HP-7M-Street-MK3-Build&p=2018089&viewfull=1#post2018089

Here is the USDM timing map for an A/T. M/T is pretty close. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?73379-3P-s-TCCS-Disassembly-Analysis&p=1771388&viewfull=1#post1771388

Do you have a wideband to monitor the A/F ratio? You need more diagnostics at this point IMHO.

other port goes to the vacuum motor for the valve.

The difference between the two is that the 89+ has a different outlet on the intercooler with an extra 90 deg if I remember correctly. It simplifies the piping by removing a bend.

At least one person is running E85 on stock ECU with daughter board. Its a good question.

The 89+ intercooler piping is different from 87-88. Not sure what you have, but a generic solution doesn't really exist.

The timing should not have 2 deg jitter in diagnostic mode. It should be rock solid at 10 deg with the throttle closed. Is the A/F behaving as expected? Does it go in and out of closed loop during acceleration from cruise? A 0.84 A/R is pretty big, you should expect low boost and laggy...

It has been said many times, "never has so little mattered to so few!" So when is everyone moving to the GR series, after all Toyota replaced the aging JZ series engines with the GR line. Lighter, more efficient, dual VVTI. The MR2 crowd has already done it.

Ughh. With the IGSW on, the only fuse protecting the igniter is the 30A FL. You may have fried it.

Its less likely to be the ECU. It is well protected against reverse polarity, which is why the fuse blew. The igniter should have been isolated from the chaos by the ignition switch, which I assume was off. I would check the igniter first though since code 14 is an ignition issue usually. Code...

Sorry, the AM1/AM2 FLs are under the hood. No need to get into the left kick panel JB. although there are fuses behind that kick panel that I assume you checked already. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=18

If you have no CEL, then you have no spark or fuel either. No need to check until you get the CEL working. Hopefully you noticed that there are two fusible links (AM1 AM2) in the left kick panel JB. Did you check those? They are rather important for the car to run.

I'm glad you deleted post #21 cause that was dumb. Look at the wiring diagram. From pin 5 you just have wire and light bulbs. The flasher is not connected to that circuit, so that cannot be the problem but some where along the path is a short to ground. You need to find it...

More info here. Hopefully just fusible links, but be prepared for the worse ... Start by checking the battery and alternator links. These are dealer only parts as far as I know. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=036