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Got all these in my cart. I might as well go with all new. Not to expensive and it'll save me headaches down the road.

Ok so I straight jumped battery to pump. Still 8 psi drop at snap throttle and drops to 10 psi full throttle. That's with battery at 14.5 volts. The wire I jump reads at 14.5 volts before i jump the pump then reads at 13.3 volts after I jump the pump. I also guess the check valve in the pump...

Will do tomorrow and will let you guys know the outcome. Hopefully this works!

Got you. So like the +B, if it where corroded it would cause a lower volt to reach the ecu, therefore the ecu would have a lower output to the other systems aka fuel pump, vsv's, ect....... which in theory would be causing my fuel pressure to drop at higher load due to lower volts right?

So if the volts getting to the ecu drops, the volt output to let's say for instance the injectors would stay the same? Like a 1 volt drop to the ecu would not have a 1 volt drop to the injectors?

Might be the reason why some of the systems are not functioning right due to insufficient power getting to the system. I will check the volts to the vsv and connect battery straight to the fuel pump and test it out then. Will have to test the resistance of my complete EFI wiring. I've also...

If I run straight from the battery to the pump wouldn't it put 14 volts to the pump constantly when running? Could that mess anything up? And could someone get me their volts to the fpr vsv at idle? Need to know if I'm getting the correct volts to that as well.

Ok so EFI fuse and relay pins looks good. I will have to test the relay out. With the car on engine not running, I'm getting a 0.12 volt drop to the EFI fuse vs battery volts. Edit: ok so with the ignition on battery at 12.36 volts I'm getting 12.16 volts to the +B on the check connector...

Ok here are my numbers At idle of 1000 rpms Batt ~ 14.57 volts +B ~ 13.67 volts Fp ~ 9.48 volts Pump ~ 9.03 volts Idle jumpers at 1000 rpms Batt ~ 14.53 volts Fp/+B ~ 12.99 volts Pump ~ 11.51 volts Draw of 4.30 amps

Ok so with +B and Fp jumped I'm reading a 2.60 volt drop through all the wiring even at the jumper. Without the jumper +B is getting the 12.6 volts. As Pi said the pump is more likely going into overload mode due to a restriction which most likely is causing the volt drop. I will start...

Yup they all three have the black ring on the rail side. Will start testing wiring and for restrictions within the fuel lines this weekend.

Would these be the proper spacers for the fuel rail?

Yes 12.17 volts engine off and fuel pump unplugged 9.61 volts with engine off and fuel pump plugged in. I guess as you said the relay is reducing the amount of volts getting to the pump due to the restriction. Yes I did put a new fuel filter on and don't remember seeing any kinks in the lines...

Ok so I retested with a 14 awg copper wire. Fuel pump backprobed and +B jumped to Fp still reads at 9.61 volts. I unplugged the fuel pump and tested the connector of power supply to fuel pump with +B jumped to Fp and it reads at 12.17 volts. Reconnected the fuel pump and tested the amps of +B...

No haven't tried another cps I've been backprobeing a few things on the ecu I haven't dropped the fuel tank but I did put my inspection camera in the sender unit hole to see the condition of the pump and tank. All looks clean. I just figured something else out hopefully. Jumped +B to Fp on...

Seems like not enough power is getting to the fuel pump. And seems like fpr vsv is not letting vac to the fpr. Also when I shut off the engine fuel pressure dropped to 10 psi fast then held at 10 psi for a good 10 minutes. Am I really facing blockage problems or maybe fuel pump isn't giving...

Ok reran a bunch of test. Fuel pressure +B and Fp 38 psi Idle no fpr 38 psi Idle with fpr 38 psi Snap throttle drops from 38 to 30 psi Full rev drops to 10 psi Volts to fuel pump Idle at 8.78 volts Full rev 11.50 volts Battery 12.6 volts car off 14.5 volts engine running Car idle at 900 rpm...

Will do

Could be true but would think this is a reman starter that I bought three months ago and it started the day I bought it. Wouldn't the company that reman'd it do that? With it having a warranty I think it be better to get an exchange on it. Also still cold here in houston so will probably check...

No it starts every time but it has a loud winning noise like 5 seconds before it starts to spin.