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So rebuilding it would be cheaper then buying new one? Where do I find parts for the rebuild? Is there places I can take it in for rebuilding it?

That is true because I just had the battery tested with their tester three times and tested good all three times. They put it on a charger and found out it was bad. So hard to trust their testers. I guess it would be more piece of mind to just drop in a new alternator atm as all my wires are...

Running all stock 7m

Unless I'm missing it I didn't see anything on the 3 pin connector testing on the tsrm.

Ok so dropped the alternator back in with a 80 amp fuse. Battery warning light came on with key on then went off with car started. Tested volts to battery. Was getting 14.4 volts. Tested volts to fuel pump 8.9 at idle and 11.5 at 2800 rpms but wouldn't rev past 2800 rpm. Turned car off. Volts...

I'm more so talking about the alternator fusible link in the fuse box.

So the 86.5 to 88 does use the 80 amp?

Took the alternator to autozone, O'Reillys, and advance auto part today to have it tested. Alternator tested good at autozone and O'Reilly and the guy at advance could not figure out how to test it right so it kept testing bad. I will start with tsrm tomorrow to figure out my issue.

I've read someone talked to a electrical engineer which told this guy that 1.25b converts to 80 amps. I believe that's your expertise Mr. 3p141592654. What's your take on that?

Ok so my alt fuse says on the fuse box cover 1.25B. It has a 60 amp fuse in the place. I'm reading on tsrm that there is suppose to be 100 amp fuse. Which one do I get 60 amp fuse or 100 amp fuse? Or am I suppose to have a fusible link?

Ok so I think I'm having alternator problems as at idle my battery reads at 12.4 volts. But the alternator tested good at autozone and I'm seeing 14 volts to the charge fuse in the engine fuse box but it is not getting to the battery. Probably why my other battery took a shit. I haven't test...

Seems to be same quality as original.

Update. Retested fuel pressure Key on Fp - +B 37 psi Idle with fpr unplugged 37 psi Snap throttle with fpr unplugged and capped drops from 37 to 33ish psi Fpr plugged in with vsv bypassed 28 psi After engine shut off it held 23 psi for well around 10 mins Volt to fuel pump at idle 7.44 volts...

What's more impressive is the dodge tomahawk. V10 motorbike. God that sounds scary.

Or in my case $900 for the supra. Lol I have notice the mkiv are pretty high in priceing. That is one car I can only dream to buy as the population of those cars has diminished in the past ten years and priceing is increasing due to supply and demand.

Here in texas it only has to pass a safety inspection ( horn, belts, lights, brakes, steering, ect...) For anything 25 years or older. No smog test. Been told by multiple mechanics that does the state inspections. I'm happy bout that.

Yes I verified tdc with a 12 inch ratchet extension in cyl 1. Will differently figure the fuel problem soon. With new battery, added some new 93 octane gas, and got the new banjo tap in I will start testing and checking things tomorrow.

Ok I just stuck my inspection camera into the fuel tank through the sender unit hole. From what i see the tank and fuel pump looks clean. I see no rust at all. I will test the volts to the pump tomorrow at idle and revving up. I will also crawl under the car to make sure the lines are all good.

All three pics are there. Crank pulley mark, cam pulley marks, and cps mark. Those would be all timing marks.

Ok finally got the broken banjo taken care of. They are shipping out a new one hopefully tomorrow.