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WTF? ::focl::

In addition, read Motor Oil 101 located in mys sig. Basically you want the lowest cold viscosity you can get in an oil. I'll tell ya, most guys on Supraforums (that don't come here) are clueless about motor oil. I like Wix filters - Purolator One is also excellent. Read the stickie this...

Suggest you read post #2 ;)

Re- read this thread. Then read Motor Oil 101 in my sig.

Re- read this thread. Then read Motor Oil 101 in my sig.

You bumped a 2 1/2 yr old thread to say BS like that? A LSD requires friction modifiers - a std differential does not, but friction modifiers will not hurt it or make a difference. A manual tranny is a different story.

You'll have to wait a bit, got another I need to build up for a local guy ;) He wants his in a traditional scheme - all black. Gonna do it on an Armalite center section.

GC is labeled "Syntec" - it should also say "European Formula" on the front. As mentioned, it comes only in a 0W-30 and (most important) says "Made in Germany" on the back.

The IOR Valdada Pitbull is a 1x4 Tactical scope with a CQB illuminated reticule. This scope is very similar to an ACOG - the biggest difference is it switches from 1X to 4X. This allows you to use 1X almost identical to an AimPoint. It has flexibility to switch to 4X for the 2-300 yrd...

Using a 10W-40 is not necessarily bad - like JJ said, you can fret over this stuff to an extreme - any Grp IV or V oil will work fine. Even the advanced Grp III hydrocracked oils (Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge, Mobil I, etc) will do just fine as well - hydrocracked base stocks have advanced...

I've lived in Miami and now live in Phoenix..you have no idea of what hot summers are really like ;) Mobil 1 is a Grp III hydrocracked base stock - it's not even a true synthetic. I use German Castrol, a Grp IV PAO base stock - FYI, only Grp IV and Grp V bases stocks are real synthetics. It's...

What in that link supports your "opinion"? I see nothing that says a 0W or 5W-30 is "too light". If you are going to have an opinion, at least base it on the facts. Saying a lighter weight oil is a factor in rod knock completely ignores a much more in common and far more frequent factor - a...

You can go wrong with that precisely for the reason you stated - the manual is over 20 years old. Oil formulation has come a long way since. Vega - you won't go wrong with German Castrol, and you won't pay Amsoil's inflated price. GC will go 7-8K easy, just change the filter at mid-mileage...

Finished another build: Specs: - Tactical Innovations billet lower reciever, AR-15 Mod T15-BDX - Colt Upper - Lothar-Walther stainless barrel, 1-8 twist polyangle rifled, Wylde chamber w/ pinned Surefire flash hider - Vltor CASV-EL handguard. Bravo Company “Gunfighter&#8221...

After that, I'd flush through a gallon of kerosene or ATF.

If it's labeled "Edge", it's the same oil as in that thread (in the USA). Castrol has changed labels at least 3 times on German Castrol...it's always said "European Formula" on the front and "Made in Germany" on the back. Edge is just probably going through the same type marketing changes. The...

- Remove all the spark plugs and timing belt. - Put a 12" wooden dowel in the #1 spark plug hole. - Turn crank damper till wood dowel peaks out at max height. The damper index should point at zero - if not, the damper is FUBAR. - Assuming damper is good, both cam gear should be aligned with the...

It's nothing special - an oil with a big name that is capitalizing on going "green" (i.e. marketing hype)

This is still correct. When buying from an individual, you need to make sure the receiving FFL will accept from an individual. You usually have to send a copy of your driver's license along with the weapon.

I'd use German Castrol 0W-30 (European Formula, says made in Germany on the back label). It's the only true synthetic (Grp IV PAO) Castrol sells in the US - that includes the 5W-40 you are referring to. It's viscosity hot is very close to a 40W. Rotella 5W-40 is an excellent oil - I've been...