Search results

As long as they are applied correctly ;) You're getting it now ;) Making for a smoother flow will drop pressure, but improve flow.

Actually, that is backwards: Increase in flow falls as pressure rises - that occurs at a specific point, depending on the fluid. Using the supercharger example, it occurs at critical mach (velocity) for air at a specific density. Up to that point flow will increase with little pressure...

The pressure sensor is after the filter - it senses pressure in the oil channel that feeds the bearings & squirters. If anything, the synthetic media in the Platinum will flow better than cellulose in the Gold. That would explain the small increase in pressure at the sender.

Purolator Pureone filters are quite good - std Purolator, not so. Sorry - don't know much about the Hastings.

LOL - read the stickies - been saying that for a very long time ;) Wix filters are almost as good and have better flow rates.

Conventional wisdom says gasoline is good for 6-12 months (as you said as well) - depending on conditions, it can go as long as 2 years. The problem is the other distillates in gasoline, these will degrade over time leaving varnish type deposits and degrading octane. There is also the problem...

LOL - way too complicated ;) Just add till the dip stick says full again.

99% of oil additives are either crap or do nothing that a good synthetic oil will already do by itself - save your $$$ a buy a good oil. Additives that contain moly or zinc (ZDDP) can be useful in certain situations...i.e. ZDDP in flat tappet cam motors. Avoid Lucas and Slick 50 like the...

Also, HTHS is shown an "min" - the 2.9 cP figure is a minimum value for all 30W oils.

Like I said, I am very comfortable with my information. If you would like to prove me as an "arrogant idiot", please feel free to do so ;) Concerning HTHS (High Temperature, High Shear) - that test has to be taken in context for a specific oil. Some background: - 100ºC viscosity is measured...

Anything is possible, but I have not seen or read anything that says it is not currently a PAO - therefore, I am not going to speculate that it has changed when I have zero reason to believe that it has. The fact that is made in Germany makes it subject to European marketing law and it is sold...

Ummm - GC is a PAO based oil - that means it is a true synthetic (Grp IV). It requires very little viscosity modifiers to stay in grade. Except when you consider European law (unlike the USA) requires oil that is labeled "synthetic" to be Grp IV or V. That means PAO or ester. Not sure what...

GC was confirmed as PAO by a gas spectrometer - you will not find it in a MSDS.

Simple - what ever's in the filter ;) It's less than a quart.

Hmmm - Mobil 1 is not the worst oil out there, actually it's pretty good. There are better oils - Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra comes to mind. I would say German Castrol, but it's getting very difficult (if not impossible) to find. Mobil 1 is over priced in comparison, for what it is - just like...

Rotella is a great oil, but using it because it's popular with the STI guys is NOT a very good reason.... German Castrol is hard to beat in the Toyota motors - a much lower cold start viscosity vs Rotella.

I can see how you would misunderstand ;) I was saying that GC was the only true syn oil (a Grp IV PAO) Castrol sells in the US and that GC's viscosity is close to a 40W hot. All other Syntec oils (all Edge oils now) are Grp III hydrocracked oils - that includes the 5W-40 version.

There is only "one" German Castrol - it only comes in 0W-30 and it says "made in Germany" on the rear label.

I was just at Autozone today - looks like they have re-branded all the Syntec oils to "Edge". The exception is German Castrol - it is still a Syntec.

If you don't want any hiccups, why use mismatched fittings? I think you already know the answer to this question ;)