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Took my car out for a drive, now it's waiting for a new clutch, stock one is dead :-/ Check The 4X4 Status! LOL!

You will need to follow each wire and see where it is grounding out. Is the alternator charging at all when you tested it in the car? Does the battery light come on when the alternator was on the car?

If your motor is in good shape, 10 PSI on the stock CT26 is fine. Then you can do basic upgrades like intake, exhaust and downpipe which will make the car much more fun to drive.

I'd suggest you save your money, get a daily. No, not a cheap daily, a reliable on, a SIMPLE CAR. Like I have said numerous times on the forums, get a 2000+ Corolla. They are 4 cylinder strong motors that need very simple maintainence. All you need to do is the timing and water pump...

No, one will need sensors to read and the other one will use the information from the standalone.

They are not hard at all. You can get the display dash with sensors or the one that will read directly from a standalone. I believe the AIM dash will read from a standalone but I am not to sure on the RacePak.

What are you going to use to tune your motor? How does the dash read, through serial?

<-Proud Of My Posts. SupraMania = Ian's Blog Since 2005 :P

Post 80 was made from post 79. Go back and read, it wasn't an insult, if you're taking it that way, I have nothing more to say.

Ok, never mind, I see you know what you're doing.....

I understand cooler cylinder temps but there will be thermal expansion and then factor in 1/4 passes right after one another, it's safer this way. You might get some blow by but that happens in all performance motors when the gaps are widened to run high boost and make big numbers. Blow By...

My calculations assuming the block is bored .020 over and what Ian said, the gaps should be First Ring - .026 Second Ring - .029 I am assuming the bore is 83.5MM (3.287402 in) which is what .020 are but obviously, he will have to verify that with his bore gauge and convert to inches.

How much power do you plan on making or want to make?

I hear E-85 and Meth smells like bubblegum. Not sure if it is true though. :dunno:

80MM can solve that. :)

Why would you delete the VVT-I? I am not really sure that makes sense.

I would take a Toyota one if you made it.

It is just the design, square or round. Use the corresponding mount. You have the splice in certain body plugs so it can turn on your relays and other electronics. Send it to Tweak and don't worry about it.

Sorry, in that case, get the swap brackets from DM BUT if you have the resources to swap an 89 round mount subframe, do it. It will place the motor in the best spot.