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The car was not in gear, However i did find that the transmission drain plug is missing as well as the fill plug. So that could be the cause of this whole delema. I just towed a surpa up from phoenix last sunday the same way and had no problems. I hope you all can learn from this i would...

Yes sir.

I am going to get the car in the air today and post alot of pic's so hang tight.

Here's two pics...what's left of the tranny and also the shifter (and another part of the tranny.) After looking under the car i realized it was not a one piece drive shaft like the guys said it was. And, i realized that the tranny is not seized, i can still turn it by hand. So, my new theory is...

Supramania is not allowing picture upload. I will try tommarow

I have parted out a few and i think you will have a hard time making 3k. 1500 to 2000 is easy though with a nice car.

So i drove down to phoenix today (100 mile trip) to look at a car that would be a perfect canidate for a part out. I met the guy and looked at the car and it was just what i was looking for. Rebuilt 7M with cometic head gasket and ARP studs, Rebuilt CT26, Rebuilt R154, One peice steel drive...

Or your tune is really just that bad.

A turbo that size should still be able to build at least 10 pounds with a good sized leak. I think you need to look at the W/G. It would not be the first time a brand new part didnt work right.

I think it should be +12*. Although i dont think this is causing your problem. I had my ingnition timing retarded once and it almost seemed to build boost faster although i have no real proof of that..lol Have you really gotten into the gas at 4000+ its a pretty large turbo and even if you...

Have you verifed valve timing. Have had this exact problem on a car and the valve timing was off.

HAC sensor?

Acetone works wonder's that is what i use to remove viton

It will richen temporarily until the walbro burns out then it will lean out and blow up..lol

Had a friend that was making 487 WHP on RC 550's And two Walbros. He had a boost spike and the injectors maxed quickly and exploded his engine. However he did make that power for a very long time on that setup..There was just no room for error. BTW it was a stock motor exept for ARP's and MLS.

I do belive that all he asked was what cheap turbo would be good for 400-500whp. Cheap is relative..But assuming 1000 is cheap for a nice turbo.. I have a Garret 60-1 with a .68 hotside and am hoping for a very well rounded setup. I wouldnt get to close to the 500 mark with 550's.

I definatly agree that toyota red is a superior product to the generic green stuff. I think they probably have a bigger budjet for R&D then prestone..lol My dealship here in town has a deal for 6 gallons of the toyota red for like 108dollars or somting like that. It might be other dealships...

Sorry. Another possibility is that OTA (organic acid technology) coolants Do not offer instant protection to new parts..It is said that it can take 1000's of miles befor a new part is "coated" enough for it to be protected..maybe this was the case with you brand new block and head. silicates...

The color of the coolant really is meaningless.. Its just dye to help spot leaks..Remember that about 93% of most coolant is ethylene glycol, the rest is water and/or a solvent to keep rust/corrosion called inhibitors. The inhibitors make a huge difference, and they're what all the arguments...

Green coolant is not going to destroy your moter..Its just not as good as Toyota red. I dont think it can do that to your moter in a few days....If it did you would not have a impeller at all in a few months..And last i checked most people do not spend the time or money to go to toyota to get...