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no im pretty sure thats not a 7m. its gotta be a 6m or 5m. look at the way the top of the head slants off to the side. and also the rear timing cover is all one piece, on a 7m the rear timing cover is divided into two different pieces

that looks like a 5m or 6m. is the head slanted at the top? if so that def a 5m or 6m

you won't know if you need to bore the block until you take it apart and get it to a machine shop. and i wouldnt think you would need to replace the stock valves unless they were damaged in some way. plus arent ferrea valves expensive? why not just go with toyota valves if you had to replace...

sounds great. how much hp does it have? and what turbo you runnin?

i like my pre 89 tails just fine. i like the 89+ too but not enough to swap mine out. i'd buy some smoked covers if the price wasnt that bad

my DD is a 96 corolla auto, so lame. but me and a friend took the stock air box off and put a k&n filter on the stock intake pipe and i also took the little resonator of the back of the pipe. now its a lot louder and you can hear the intake all the time. ive been tryin to think of other little...

my noise came from the valve covers at first but now it just kinda comes from everywhere and is real loud

my car started out having a light tick and then it turned into rod knock about 4 months later. it never got louder so i figured it was just valve ticking because i when my head was rebuilt the shop kinda messed up. but i changed the oil one time and drove it to school and it got way louder and...

yeah 935 motorsports definitely has a better set up for about $150, its a DIY. it comes with everything except a muffler. i plan on getting one of these and the total price with muffler is like $245. thats less than that one on ebay after you add the price of a muffler plus since 935 is a vendor...

my 7mge has had a light tap for a thousand miles at least and just recently its gotten a lot worse. i changed the oil last weekend and put on a new exhaust and it got to the point where the knock was louder than the exhaust. so im not driving the car anymore until i swap in my 7mgte im building.

oh my bad, go my words backwards. as i release the clutch pedal it starts shaking. but only in first and reverse

i bled the system when i replaced the clutch slave cylinder. i'll check to see how far its pushing the clutch fork. there was a lot of grease or fluid on the fork itself and the inside of the boot that covered it, is that normal? it wouldnt surprise me if the clutch started to go because its got...

theres two things acting up with my tranny right now. the first is at a stop i'll let the clutch out and give it some gas like i normally do but its like the clutch isnt engaging or something because the car starts shaking. once i start moving the shaking stops. it does this in reverse too, but...

tuner transformation wasnt that bad of a show. what happened to it?

same thing happened to my xbox. i read up on it and i ended up having to replace the whole dvd drive. microsoft used three different drives for them and i got the cheap one that wears out fast. so i got the top of the line one and its been working ever since. not sure about the ps2 but im sure...

if you have the money i say 240. its lighter than the 300z and plus i just like 240's more than 300z's

there are two different trannys. the R154 and the W58. chances are thats a R154 on the 1jz, dont know any reason it wouldnt be. stick with the R154, it can handle anything you throw at it

i have an '88 and my seat has the power sliding, height adjusting, angle adjust, and the lumbar... maybe the previous owner swapped it, dont think so though

i've driven a '03 altima se-r 6spd. it was pretty quick. they are supposed to be faster than the 350z. it had a nice ride to it

thanks chris. thats what i thought i should do but just wanted to make sure