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I don't believe so. The housing bolt spacings look different from pictures. The shifter itself is the same between the two, though.

Nope, they're part of the housing and not serviceable (through Toyota). You'll need the entire upper shifter housing. You'll also need the 6 bushings, and the large gasket underneath- none of which are cheap. IMO, you'd do well to search the classifieds for a broken R154 that has a good upper...

That doesn't look like it was designed for the Supra. Looks more like a Honda style shifter to me. I'd recommend grabbing a used OEM shift lever. How are the guide studs in the shifter housing? Looks like one has taken a beating.

Main thing I'd check about the shifting stuff- transmission linkage adjustment- if it thinks you're partially in neutral, or if the linkage is being pushed into neutral as you drive, this might the result. Next time it acts up (if it does it again) turn it off, but don't touch the shifter. Try...

I think that drain flange was a -10, but it could very well be a -8. It's a depth of field optical effect. I have a BB turbo and can get away with the drain size of *gasp* -6AN. (feed is restricted through a .016" orifice per Comp) It barely any oil moves through that turbo. As for the flange...

I use 3 types of gaskets for turbo drains. Fiber gasket is my most preferred since they are generally pretty easy to get, as well as not being susceptible to the heat like rubber. Inset rubber O-rings are also pretty legit, since the flange shields the o-ring from most of the heat. Lastly...

Once the struts and springs are installed, get a quality alignment. The adjustments may be seized, but if the car has always been in Cali, you may luck out. Make sure the shop that does the alignment is the best shop you can find. A meh alignment and a great alignment can make a huge difference.

thread moved and slightly re-titled to reflect accurate topic. continue :P

Standard diagnostic checks are in order. Check for codes in the computer- connect terminals E1 and TE1 in the diagnostics connector and watch the CEL flashes- they will count out flash codes. Refer to your repair manual for what they mean and how to understand them. Check cam timing, do a...

I'd use whatever 2J map data you have, as it'll be closer than a 7M map. If you have nothing aside from 7M stuff, you can try to start with it, but just be careful to go over everything before running boost.

Everything is going to be different, so you'll have to play it safe until you have the tune adjusted for the different engine. Be careful, you can melt an engine quickly if you're not!

Looks like you need a new master- the firewall cover material looks to be soaked in brake fluid. Also, the pushrod should not be disconnected like your appears. Looks like someone tried to weld it back together but failed. Get a new clutch master and it should come with everything! ninja edit...

Pretty much. You do have to turn off the multiplex ignition option in the AEM software, though. You also have to make sure your ignition phasing is correct, depending on the way you wire it up, but that's pretty simple.

I run the coils wasted spark without any issues up to 7800 rpm. 12v and ground are easy. IGT is the signal directly from the AEM EMS. I wire partner cylinders together to get wasted spark. IGF is unused and I use pin plugs to keep the connector watertight.

CT26 tops out around 300whp stock. To use higher compression, you would need a standalone to control spark. To use high compression without knock, you'd need either E85 or race gas. For 400whp, you'll need a new turbo, and don't buy it from ebay. There is so much more than that, but that's what...

At the moment it's a chassis swap. The new Maroon one is an NA, non-abs, Hardtop that'll be pretty stripped out and caged. Not sure how heavy the 4L80E will be, but I think it'll be below 3300 with me in it.

Slight direction change- I found and purchased a 1991 Hardtop shell! I don't have any space to work on it atm, but as soon as I finish the current WRX side job we're going to start some serious teardown and inspection! Only picture atm:

If I were to go nuts, I'd go one of two directions. 1- Surge tank. Stock fuel pump in the tank, running at 0psi, feeding a surge tank. The pump has waaaay more than enough flow at 0psi to supply dual big pumps. The surge tank would feed my choice pressure pumps, whether they be in-tanks or...

Fitting dual pumps in the tank with the stock hanger isn't impossible, but you have to be very careful in how you attach them to the hanger and how you install the unit into the tank. I have dual Stealth 340's as well, both of which fit into the stock basket. To ensure proper fuel supply to the...

Hand de-torque the diffy bolts imo. Only use impact/power tools once its apart and you can clean the threads and lube with anti-seize. Same goes for the subframe hardware. I do live in the land of salt, though...I tend to take things very slowly.