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I know what you mean. Iridiums aren't the cure for a poor tune...

I'm about to put 6097's back in, my iridiums break up too. I know that it's due to incorrect gap, but I couldn't get them set right since I couldn't touch the electrode. I'd buy another set if I could get them gapped at .025ish..... Not to worry, I'm on the 1.5jz war path, so I'll end up...

I'll call you today Jay, I'm finally out of master gunner school....

So Jay, was the sound proofing worth the money & effort?

I guess so....

I run a 60-1 (62mm wheel) that Jon put together for me. .58 V-flange rear housing, makes full boost around 3700rpm. I maxed out at 527rwhp with it. I love it, awesome set up.

It's taking a long time to crank because it's too rich. Once you get it leaned out it will be easier. Leave the 400 column as is, I had already made that change before I saved and sent it to you.

I'll try to get some pictures up soon....

My injectors flowed 450cc, that's why I mentioned dropping your table 18% :icon_bigg

Create a new column in your timing map for 400rpm & set your timing at 6 degrees. It helped me a ton

If you're running 550's, try trimming your fuel table. Try -18% and see what happens.....

I run 38ish PSI. Did you load up the file that I had sent you? My car runs rich, but not that rich....

First, go into your timing table & create a new column; assign the column value 400 rpm & set all of it's cells to 5 degrees. Next, add some start up fuel (I believe mine is set around 65%), and then find the cell in the fuel table that it's operating, and keep bumping up the fuel until it...

0 is typically the LTP (36 pin/printer) port. Do you have only one USB port? If so, plug the cord into another one & check see which port it is thru the device manager; set the COM port setting in Stinger accordingly, turn the key car on & you should get prompted "ECU found, do you want to...

LOL, you dick :sarcasm:

word, instant spool. I'm going 1.5J as soon as I can, hopefully by the end of summer.

Piggybacks only adjust AFR's, not timing. Piggybacks scale the air flow signal to the ECU, and the ECU adds more or less fuel accordingly. For mild builds, this is fine because you're not leaning out the AFR too much for stock timing. However, for bigger power builds, a piggyback would have...

Crap, that rocks

526whp for me

How much for a ceramic coated manifold & DP?