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Did you ever solve your problem? If not, are you completely sure that the cam lobe is not hitting the indicator during rotation? A friend of mine taught me a trick when you don't have a slimmer indicator tip. Take a piece of TIG welding material and attach it to the tip with shrink wrap...

How can it be a tranny problem? I'm having the same problem with a brand new SPEC stage 3 kit. So the only difference is the clutch used and that my slave cylinder is not brand new, only rebuilt. I installed the spec disc with my old stock pressure plat (PP) and that combination works...

As far as I know you can't use putty on top of etching primers. I'm using 2-comp. epoxy primer and that seals it up good.

Driftmotion: http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-7m-geoilfilterunionbolt.php

I have them on my camera now so I'll upload them later today. Now I need to drive my supra :P

I just got back from my garage. I installed the new spec disc and old stock pp....and it works :) So I feel pretty safe to say that there is something wrong with the spec pp.

There's a difference between the old and new pp. The distance between the friction surface and diaphragm differs 5 mm. So the hub needs to move 5 mm more before it catches up with the stock pp.

I'm starting to suspect those rivets I was talking about in the beginning. From starting the engine with first gear in there was uneven wear on the pp friction surface. Only half of the friction surface shows any sign of contact. I mean half way around. The other half looks brand new. So half of...

Well I tried it anyways, but that didnt help anything. I will take down the gearbox again tomorrow and I have three alternatives: 1. Install stock disc and pp, there's still some life left in them. 2. Install stock disc with spec pp. 3. install spec disc with stock pp. Which would you...

What about washers (C) and (D), can I move those to the other side of the bearing? I will then get about 2 mm more movement

I just took down the gearbox. Nothing jumps at me. Thickness of the new disc is 9,5 mm and the old worn one is 6,6 mm.

The pedal adjustment has been adjusted in every way. I have even raised the fork pivot point

O It looks like the washer is installed correctly. The fw is not resurfaced, it checked out. I have no clue at all, so I think I will pull the gearbox...

What about if the large flat washer with recess (F) in poodles pic is facing the incorrect direction, could it be enough to make the clutch not fully disengage? Is it even possible to install it in the wrong direction and get the c-clips on?

Poodles: If (F) is the wrong way around, is that enough to make the clutch not fully disengage? Because I can see the disc move from the FW, but it needs to move just a tiny bit more.

Poodles: Yes I believe I assembled it like that. And what I can see now makes me think it's correct. The only thing I can't confirm is the recessed washer and cone washer. What would happen if any of these were in the incorrect direction? Suprapowaz!: here is a pic of the disc:

Here is the clutch pedal pressed to the floor: And here it's fully released: Does that look like it can't move any further? Does the release hub seam to be assembled correctly? What will happen if I shim the pivot point for the clutch fork?

I think that I've found the problem. When the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor, then the release bearing hub is in contact with the gearbox. Is it ok to shim the pivot point for the clutch fork?

I made a new longer rod and that did nothing. The rivets I was talking about are note the ones holding any end of the straps. But the rivets are not a problem. My supra is currently ready to be driven with it's new engine, but I can't since the clutch is not working. I'm going mad here. I...

Currently that is adjusted to get as much movement as possible