No I didn't rotate it, my thinking process does not work when I'm stressed out and working on my car... How ironic; I'm stressed because of my car, while working on it!!
What's the proper way to remove the main cap with the thrust washers? My thrusts are getting jacked/falling to the floor when...
Damn Ian I went out before you posted.. Switched #6 and #2 caps, the true#6 spot compressed below .025 and the true #2 spot didn't compress really at all.
Fuck.... Been doing this since yesterday I think I removed and installed the caps all of 4 times now, my thrust washers are getting gouged...
1).050
2).050
3).051
4).051
5).052
6).070 noticed bearing was slightly rotated in cap, not completely flush cap end to cap end
7).053
tsrm standard clearance .021-.053, max clear .07
Polished crank with standard Clevite badged, NDC bearings.
Not particularly happy with this...
Machine shop said it's normal and it isn't very significant because it's the back of where the bearing seats. he said that's where the dowel goes through for some sort of procedure and that I can hit it with some scotch brite if i feel necessary.
Works for me!
I just noticed my main caps are scratched up.. Either they were like that when my engine was running or the machine shop did something weird but here they are. Finger nail catches so I figured it had to be an issue.
I'm actually in the process of deburring the valve cutouts/edges on my NPR pistons with 600 grit sandpaper and I came on to see if it's worth it to continue lol.
I'm using 600grit and it's just enough to notice a difference when running your fingers over the tops of the pistons.
What do you...
Never works, the 03 mustang gt and some z28 I raced were blatantly hostile. One just sped off after and the other started cussing and did the same.
They were uber vato, wonder what would of happened if I would have lost... fags.
Yeah that's why I didn't want em to do it, I wanted the toy ones which I got 2 weeks later from champion after I picked up my block.
My goal is to completely assemble my block from scratch by myself as a learning experience minus them attaching the rods to the pistons with the wrist pin.
I was worried that might take too much off or scratch it too deep.
I'm still not able to correctly choose the correct grits/coursness for the material I'm working on w/o knowing if it will damage it or not. For some reason it's hard for me to visualize...
I just used the 320 sandpaper...
I thought I'd have them done tonight but it takes a good while to sand each one down clean..
I got about 6/10 of the plug hole walls finished with 320 sandpaper till they were clean and super flush with no burrs.
I actually feel confident that they will all seal perfectly when I'm done tho...
If what i have doesn't work out then sure.
I picked up 2 seal driver kits from HF today, total was like $23. In the attached pic you can see the metal ones fit just on the edge of the plug and one of the plastic ones does also. Not sure if the plastic one will work... might break right? How...
Yeah i got all 11 through champion toy and have 2 seal driver kits for it
I'm leaving it in then! Don't want to risk engine failure...
Permatex #1?? Y not you in FC!?
I think I knocked all my freeze plugs but the core plug for no reason.....
Ooh it can stay in!?! All the freeze plugs must be changed after a hot tank right? Wouldn't I also need to change that one in the pic?
Cause It bothers me that I can't find it so I at least want to see what it looks like lol.
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