Good to see this is still being bumped.
Ordered two rotors and calipers from rockauto (raybestos and centric) and had one of the rotors bored out (the other one had a drum in the box instead of a rotor ffs).
Rotor won't fit all the way ont the hub face. Do I have to remove the dust shield in...
My friend works for Borg Warner, they exist.
Personally I wouldn't mind buying a used one and grabbing a Rostra set or a used set for a 'next time' in case it happens, the tranny pan isn't hard to drop. Wish I had one lying around but the N/A tranny I have in the garage doesn't have the valve...
http://www.giffin.plus.com/emanage/usb.htm
Bought a cable from him a few weeks ago (except the website was a .uk site, can't find it now...should be the same between the two). Works great!
RazoE, is the stereo harness its own entity that plugs into the dash harness or is it all one harness? The previous owner on mine hacked the stereo harness all up instead of buying an adapter harness and it sucks haha.
Also, if the 86.5 is the same as the 87 (should be) and OP doesn't want it...
I hate discussing this with *anybody*, arguing with OEM makes me sound like I have no clue wtf I'm talking about. Also overfilling the oil is an interesting topic, no-one gets that one either.
...you can replace a HG and just throw all the bolts into a coffee can because you recognize exactly...
Are the license plate lamps on a different circuit than the tail light circuit? I couldn't imagine it being any more difficult than running a wire from one leg of the taillight fuse in the driver kick panel to an ice cube relay triggered by a 12v toggle switch, then wired back into the fuse...
Actually wouldn't mind knowing this myself...no one really has a source for them and they seem to only offer patch harnesses where you need to solder each wire.
Finally delving into this myself:
The ECU uses pulse-lock connectors (made by AMP/Tyco):
Header panel connector:
Part #: 1-172319-7...
You won't know until you start trying to figure it out. This is from the first link he gave:
Code 6/12
Problem Area: RPM signal
Description: ECU has no “NE” or “G” signal within 2 seconds of cranking
Areas to investigate:
1. Alarm/immobiliser
2. CPS/distributor (or...
The guy from the shop sounds like a giant fucking retard. Take your car somewhere else who can properly diagnose what's going wrong with it.
You'll run into people who don't know the difference between a left and right handed wrench the more you take your car out and talk to people.
Posting here just in case there are updates here I don't see on SF or something.
You're working on a lot of projects, nice! Anything for side fenders in the works or that you know of elsewhere?
My sunroof is wired into the clock too, I know when the sunroof motor won't work cause the clock is gone. Last on my list, I dislike taking the dashboard apart.
http://www.wirecare.com/deutsch-connectors.asp?selectedDelimiter=35&Series=HD30
Two of those might do you good, although I'm not that fond of circular connectors...can never figure out how to label the wires or where the start/end of it all is.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with torquing a composite OEM gasket to 90 ft-lbs. There is also absolutely nothing wrong with using copper spray on an OEM gasket, or for that matter, on any other gasket on the car.
Both will work with the 7MGTE no modifications necessary.
The 7M has low impedence injectors stock. Only difference between low and high is that high imp. react slightly slower and they use less current to pop/stay open. The current flowing through the wires is all that you need to be worried...
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