Ohh nevermind I thought it was its own brand. I have no idea then. But I do know that innovatives widebands sensors constantly need re-calibrating and they burn up fast. Try "free-air"(or whatever they call it) calibrating the sensor.
88-89 was the big switch for all the wiring and ton of other stuff. The easiest way to come over this problem would be to just rewire the headlights onto a new switch.
Does anyone know what the T4 flange on the SSAC manifold is tapped to? Reason I ask is I have very limited amount of time to get bolts for it and it would be alot easier and faster to just drop into the hardware store and tell them exactly what I need instead of having the guy try a bunch of...
NO!!!! If anything just put some new tranny oil in it. Shake it up a bit. Spin the input shaft a bunch. Then drain it and fill it with Redline MT-90 when you put it in the car.
Push on the clutch again and see if it gets rock hard. If it does then I had the same thing happen to me. The snap ring came off the back side of the throwout bearing. I bought a new hub and all the snap rings from Toyota.
I have 235s on the front and 275s on the back. Although you can run much wider tires on both the front and rear. But what I've found is there a huge price difference after 275s, for say a 275 would be $140 for a specific tire and a 285 in the same tire is $50 more expensive. But I have seen...
If your going to get an air/fuel gauge then you have to get a real Wideband like an AEM Uego not an autometer narrowband. Difference is narrowband only reads rich or lean essentially with a sweeping light bar. A wideband has a wider voltage range so it can actually show exactly how rich or...
Just looked them up on Summitracing since I can just go down the street and pick it up. They have a 3 wire and a 4 wire sensor so I'm going to go over there and see if the 3 wire is a thread in because the 4 wire is labeled as a thread in sensor and the 3 wire is not.
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