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if you reset the ecu it often takes some driving to get everything sorted. mine used to do the same thing. idles a bit high, and at times it would even idle a bit low. have a bit of hesitation to it as well. id give it a go for a bit then see where you are. good luck

just as jon said. HKS Adjustable Pop-Off Valves provide secondary overboost protection in the event of wastegate malfunction or failure. These valves simply pop open at a preset amount of boost pressure allowing excess boost to blow off to the atmosphere

check the line pressure control cable as well as the fluid level. when checking the fluid, you have to do it right to be accurate. drive the car for about 20 min. then shift into each gear for a few seconds at a time, then put it back in park. then check the stick. do all this w/ the...

yep. if they are led backlit not much you can do. otherwise, you can tap into the wiring for the ashtray light. it dims w/ the gauges. you cant hook to the gauge wiring directly because it uses the ground side of the circuit.

oh you were speaking of just the cc relocate. yes, his is very nice.

i must have missed that. the guy im talking about was about 7yrs ago

fields harness is fine, just on the bulky side. get a nice pair of strippers and you can just peel back the insulation from a section. the method you use for connecting the wire is fine. use good quality electrical tape! the cheap stuff peels over time. here is the wire stripper i use.

i saw a guy do this quite some time ago: he relocated his cc to the armrest. then, he cut out the section of the center dash where the cc and ashtray was. he made a gauge panel and recess mounted it that empty area. finally, he made a cover that fits over it. it was just pressure fit...

that would work i think. you could probably use a vsv for that.

marlon- no you dont have to run one w/ that setup. no changes to the coldstart, just adjusted the throttle body. it effects the idle a little during warm up. but i always let the car get to about 150F before driving anyway.

thats your problem. analog 1 is for a narrowband. switch it over to analog 2.

auto timer is based off of the speed signal wire from the ecu (if you tap'd that). the vac is for the boost gauge feature on the timer. it will display realtime as well as peak hold. neither of these need to be hooked up for the timer to function standard.

youd want 14-15 idle and cruise. 11-12 under boost. did you calibrate the system? did you use the terminator plug? did you hook the gauge to the correct cable?

i see what you are saying, you want to set up the 2 step as a sort of anti-lag system. but you are still limited to the rpm of the stall. ideal would be to have the stall at torque peak, which is higher than 3300 on a 67. i know a loose converter isnt for everyone tho. buldozr- the ati...

ok, please explain to me what good a two step is on an auto. i dont follow.

two step on an auto? are you serious?

id want something around a 4200 stall w/ a 67mm turbo.

good deal you might want to go ahead and fix it right. it will keep happening if you dont, and always at the worst time. you can either buy new clips and pins from toyota to replace it all, you can hardwire it bypassing the clips, or make your own clip. you can take it apart and bend...

joe- it was designed to be used as a pop off valve as well. thats what the other port is for.