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I'm quoting a guy who's quoting Curt @ Elmhurst Toyota: the thread pitch for the fuel pump/tank hangar to that flex hose, AND the inlet to the fuel pump, is metric 14x1.25. The outlet of the fuel pump is 12x1.25. JJ is right, you'll have to buy the metric to A/N fittings or whatever you need...

12.37 @ 111. Auto, CT26 57 trim, DDP, 264 cams, ProEFI, E85. Gotta fix a few things and go back to see if I can knock a few tenths off.

http://www.bicperformance.com/products.htm Near the bottom of the page, $30 gets you a proper CNC laser cut flange. You'll have to weld the tab in of course.

The lines actually go to a small junction block a bit below the master cylinder but yeah its close. I'd contact Toyota and see if they have the brake lines for a non-abs car in stock, bending your own and getting the length just right is a pain.

No and no. Although fixing it probably wouldn't be hard (finding an ABS computer or another ABS block would be easy and cheap) You could either remove the ABS block in the engine bay and buy new lines from Toyota which will run from near the brake master cylinder along the firewall to where the...

You can use straight 30 weight (because its cheap, and less additives therefore more actual oil) to flush the engine out the first two or three times. Then switch to whatever you're going to use after that.

I have a spare chopped up one in my bundle of parts...it's between 1.5 and 1.75" at its thickest point. I'd buy 1.75" or 2", that way if you add any extra relays/switches/whatever you have room to spare.

The TEMS system has a couple switches near the gear shifter (called the TEMS controller), and there's the TEMS ECU which is in the passenger footwell stuck in the corner. There's a harness between the TEMS ECU and the dashboard (pretty sure), where it gets its speed signal and TPS signal...

1 thou isn't enough to change CR at all. You should definitely do all the studs now that you have the head off, much easier now than later when another strips.

I know ;) The ones I ordered were 66 and change for some reason, don't know how I slipped up on that.

I ordered some hubcentric spacers from z1motorsports, the hub diameter wasn't displayed on the page and I can't remember why I thought it was 60.1. I've got 12mm spacers coming tomorrow and they should baaaarely clear the calipers.

Hubcentric spacers I bought were the wrong hub size, just ordered new ones... BUT, the picture I posted a few posts back of RX7 FD rims: I put the drivers side brakes on yesterday and I had to grind a few mm off of the top of the caliper to get it to fit. I took the picture of the passenger...

If you're using a Toyota OEM gasket you can spray it with copper gasket spray and that will absolutely take up any imperfections in the block. Cleaning the block with it still in the car is going to take a while, but you'll be happy you did it. Keep posting pictures if you're unsure. ESTA...

As far as cleaning material off of the block, the only thing you can do is use a gasket scraper and be careful to not gouge into the block itself. Use WD-40 or something like that so the chips don't jump all over the place and spend as much time as you need to. Don't use a wire wheel or anything...

If you can take the stock Toyota rotor off and measure the thickness of the rotor where it mates with the hub, I can post up the thickness of the MB rotor in that same spot.

Traction control for what ECU?

Posting here with relevant info as per your questions: I originally used a generic spring compressor like this one (http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-23300-Engine-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000P0VTG4), but with a 3/4" or 1" piece of PVC between the keepers and the compressor...the PVC has a hole in it so...

Yes, I ordered a bunch of them. I'll post here if they work or don't, but I'd be really surprised if they didn't. Yes you could do that, but yes it would be a big pain in the ass to remove them later. If you do choose to sand them, don't sand them so much that it becomes a sloppy fit.

Makes sense, that'd worry me too. I found these after a bunch of searching: http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/2242 2mm thick, those are a lot thicker than the generic ones I had lying around.

I have the calipers in the first pic, they fit fine. Had to remove the brake pad sensor, the mounting tab for it sticks out but doesn't hit the rim so I'm not going to cut it off. +1 to thanking you for sharing the info! I could never understand keeping info like this all to yourself. Not any...