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Nitro Gears sells a 3.54 ratio for our cars...you need to grind the pinion down a hundred thou or so for clearance but if you're looking for something lower they have it. Those pictures are nuts, those are shredded lol.

Nitro Gears sell good units and in an assortment of ratios. Its very rare to strip teeth out of the diff, they should hold just fine for that power level. Yukon does too.

+1 on the ethanol Walbro pump (400/416/450, called all sorts of things). I have a single one in my tank and it fit into the hangar and the tank without a problem. The end of it is very fat so you might need a worm clamp. 700 might tap it out but it'll be close.

The front hardline is out of the trans, to the cooler. The rear hardline is from the cooler back to the trans.

Do you want someone to drive to your house and install them for you? Jesus... edit: Urgh. There isn't any difference between ABS and non ABS brake lines. Search already.

I had it machined by Jim Thomas behind Kolorcraft in Syracuse NY but some pits were left around the cooling jackets and cylinders. He said it was fine, I wanted it smooth. I ended up taking a day off of work and driving down to North East Auto Machine in CT because they're familiar with the 7M...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=3312&P=3 That pic shows one of those boots but the other looks smaller...in your picture it looks to be the same size. Might be that one? Hopefully someone can verify.

I bought a CF14 (EP35) blinker module and it ended up being the wrong configuration, so the CF13 (EP34) module like Bmettie posted will work. I got mine from diodedynamics and I don't believe it would have plugged in due to the housing...but they did send 3 heat shrinked terminated wires...

I just emailed turbosmart this week asking about their IWGs haha, they have dual ports which will absolutely help all around...you can have a low psi spring in it but also run high boost because of the second/lower port. Only issue is they only have straight clevis arms and the stock CT26 is...

The fuel pump will not give you any extra horsepower. 12v mod shouldn't matter either, as at WOT the fuel pump is at 12V anyways. But cutting the yellow FP wire on the ECU is easy to do if you still want to do it.

I bought a few as well and the white 1156s showed up, I put them in the reverse and rear blinker positions. Despite the glass being amber its much brighter than the stock light and comes on immediately (the stock light faded on and off compared to how quickly the LED came on). Red 1157s are...

Eck, welding a flange on the front of the stock intake manifold doesn't make a FFIM. I bet that flows like crap. Sethron/Sleeper Designs makes FFIMs and has even flow tested some of his 2JZ FFIMs.

Did you have to bend the socket in order for it to shine up? Didn't know that they were being sold from big name manufacturers, I'll have to grab some. Quality smaller bulbs for the interior are cheap but the 1156/1157s have always been very expensive.

I've had a female spade on mine for almost a year now and it's just fine, it fits tightly. If you look at the standard female connectors they have a detent in them anyways which will keep them from vibrating apart. I couldn't find the part number for that terminal otherwise I would've bought it.

Around 300 hp is a good estimate, depends how worn the motor is. There's quite a few dyno sheets floating around of stock motors with the lexus/550 combo and 57 trims.

Damn, just bought a rebuild kit from Weir which includes a solid pinion spacer...wish I had seem that on ebay before I bought it. FWIW, since Weir sneakily doesn't post prices of the rebuild kit on his website, the diff rebuild kit is currently priced at $349 (which includes the solid pinion...

Me neither, I've never seen or heard of that happening. I still don't believe it haha...are you absolutely sure it's not dripping down the side of the block and making its way over there?

Haven't had any issues with them, I bought a bunch extra because I know I'll need them down the road. I wouldn't hesitate to buy again if I needed to. Brakes still work great after all these weeks!

Doubtful that the block is cracked. Cap might be a higher pressure than stock but it's probably just a hose or a connection that's loose or cracked. UV dye will help like you said, I wouldn't worry.

They make metric 12x1.25 to AN-6, for example, or 12x1.25 to a barb. All depends on how you want your setup to be run.