Search results

Tubes suck imo because if they move, it could shear the stem off and totally fuck up your day. And were talking about regular ET streets and not hte radials. Not to mention tubes are extra rotating mass...granted not alot, but every little bit counts

You dont *have* to run tubes with them. Usually rim screws woudl be used if you're not gonna run a tube, btu if youre not gonna be running <1.5 60's, they probably arent necessary. the only way to tell for sure is to mount them and mark the tire on the rim and see if they move on the rim. Also...

26x10.5x16 Et streets or 26x8.5x16 ET drags....essentially the same dimensions

It wont be long before a 1000+whp 7m dyno graph is posted on here....

i bet when the car squats even a little, they'll rub......

lumiblue is the bomb-shit :D

May i suggest getting out the welder and getting to it??? :) Powdercoating pics soon or ban! ;)

So how does a 4g with a race tranny comapre to a 7m with a stock tranny again? Thanks for the insight, but it really doesnt help much.

Bypassing the NSS wont help the fact that its unsprung. Although i havent *personally* used an unsprung, i had the rps 3200 maxx with springs and the engagement was harsh and i broke a few trannys. I can only imagine the unsprung harshness. I cant say that you WILL break your tranny, btu i think...

nothing similar to the 7m. Im sure with the right amount of time and $ one can be swapped in, but vvti really isnt worth it at all.

Ian, how much can he drop off the 6m crank?? ;) Im sure at least a couple :) If i was looking for any long term reliability i woudl have a 7m crank for sure. I guess my mindset right now is that every little bit helps! :) And now back to our reularly scheduled thread.... Powdercoating...

I agree with them :) I however am not interested in longevity, just max power/revs etc. as it is not much of a street car anymore. If i get around to it, i may even lighten up the 6m crank :D Sorry to clutter up the thread again :) I always like hearing others opinions on subjects like...

It would depend on how crazy they get with the edging....doubt it woudl make up the difference between the 2 cranks, but thats ok. Every little bit helps IMO. Like i said, im sure most would be better off with the 7m, i just liek to be different i suppose :)

Not to clutter up the thread, btu im an advocate for lightweight rotating assemblies. Granted the 6m crank is *only* ~5lbs lighter than the 7m crank, but soem people kill for 5lbs off their rotating mass (keep in mind ive been a chevy guy before i got into toyotas, ive felt soem heavy cranks...

Sent the $ for mine! :D

you can, but i wouldnt. Thats what the big breaker-bars are for :)

Thats cool :) I prefer the 6m myself, but im probably the only one who does...lol. Good luck with everythign and make sure to show us pics of all the powdercoated stuff. I <3 powdercoating :)

Not to throw the thread off track, but why are you dissapointed abotu the 6m crank? Anyways, makin' good progress and looks like she'll be a beaut when she's done!

The general consensus says find the size out and we'll tell you what size wheels you'll need to fit them if they can fit at all :)

MT, M&H, BFG, and I think Goodyear has a new one, But stay away from the nittos unless you want long tire life. Thats the only thing it has oveer the others. I hated my nittos.....