Wow...I heard we were suppose to be slowly breaking in the motor. But yeah what you guys said does make more sense. Varying the RPM range will get everything to settle in much better. Well I am using Mobil 1 synthetic 0-30w. I am not sure if this is the best oil for the supra, but my buddies...
Ive only got about 18 miles on them. Ive heard that they need to settle in during the break in. Is it normal though? I have really been babying the break in , not even going past 3500-4000 rpm. Also have not even been on the highway yet. I heard NPR is supposed to be basically OEM...
Finally started up my car last week after a long head gasket job. Car starts right up and idles perfect (no smoke). Then i go and give it a little gas and all i see down the block is bluish/grey smoke. Weird thing is when left to sit and idle the car runs smooth and no smoke from the tail...
It all started with a BHG then I needed to get the head resurfaced, after that I found out I needed the block resurfaced, then I needed a valve adjustment with new seals, and for the block to be resurfaced i needed to take everything out bare block so they dont charge me 400 dollars to...
Well fellaz this is my first rebuild ever, i am very new to the "internals" world of engines. I dont have oodles to spend on the motor, so honestly is it that bad to reuse the old bearings. Bearings have not been mismatched with the rods, I just dont know which piston/rod set goes into which...
Basically I gapped them and put pistons 1,2,4 in then thats when I noticed the issue of all the marked pistons gone. I am reusing the old rod bearings and am pretty sure they are the stock toyota.
Thx for the info, I knew Bud Light and precision work dont mix and match. LOL
I dont know if this helps, but all the rings are new from driftmotion...on stock pistons and rods. Its actually the rod bearings that attach to the crank that i am concerned about.
I think im in deep crap now...during the rebuild my buddy cleaned off all the permanent marker labels on the pistons with brake cleaner now i only can tell Pistons 1,2,4. Is there a way to tell the configuration of 3,5,and 6. Please help!
Just got my head back from a reputable machine shop! I asked them if these pits were going to affect the head gasket (greddy MHG 2.0mm), they said no. Honestly I dont remember seeing any pits in the head prior to the resurface, but that was just probably me. Just want some of you more...
I just did my BHG...impact did not do a thing. My cuzzin a honda guy uses a huge sledge hammer and knocked it right off! 2-3 whacks and it loosened up real quick. I suggest you try it before going out and buy impact tools. Real cheap, real quick and way better than Impact.
hey rayall, what do you think about block surface with pitting around coolant passages and MHG. Sound like a no go to me. Is it hard to resurface the block? What do i need to do? thx.
I didnt have the mechanic change out the water pump but he did put in a new thermostat. I am curious whereas how im getting so much corrosion and/or rust stains in the block. I see alot of this staining in the water outlet and in the radiator. I have always used coolant/water mixture. Any...
Yeah, im never going to that place again. I orderd a MHG from greddy already. Im going to send my head to get checked out for warpage and maybe mill if needed. Also on order are ARP bolts. The idiot I believe reused my original head bolts for the head gasket job. Any input on how i can prep...
So you're saying that all mechanics work are fail proof??? I checked my temp gauge periodically, but what happened was pretty much instant. No prior symptoms.
after taking the head off, out of 14 head bolts 3 were pretty much hand tight. At the most about 15-20lbs. Right by cylinder 3 and 4. Im really thinking the gasket didnt fail, but instead he forgot to tighten them down.
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