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If you need to get lower, you can droop the spring. Meaning that when the car is in the air, there is no load on the spring and it is hanging loose with a gap between the top of the spring and the hat. This will get the car lower, but it will also take away damper travel. Although all the...

I will measure tomorrow and let you know. I have a pair of Bilsteins sitting up here with me and then a pair of stock dampers in the shop.

Alright ladies, calm down. Clubs are for hitting stuff. NA is cool if you're making a lot of power because power is cool. There is such a thing as too wide of a tire and too low of an offset if you actually drive your car. Hardparking is a lot more forgiving on wheel size...

Why because everyone either has boring fitment or way too crazy fitment? Well besides a couple people.

So it's a drift car. Even with that, it's still welcome to understeer city. Unless you're stretching 245s or 255s on those 12s and can steer with the throttle and don't like man entries or going super fast. I'm not saying it wouldn't look cool for cruising around and bs like that...

what new seal? i thought we were talking about a clutch job? if it's just a seal, screw it, let the engine blow and put a better one in there.

For a grip setup, I would get different wheels. That kind of stagger in widths and tires sizes is just asking for understeer, not to mention the larger track width in the back due to the much lower offset. I'm all about fitting sweet wheels, and you should do flares because I want to see...

I still wouldn't do it under the car. I don't like getting dirty.

I would pull the engine and do the trans stuff with it out of the car. But that's just me. I don't like fishing around inside a tranny underneath the car to get stuff loose and especially with this pull-type nonsense. Unless I have a lift and a super sweet trans jack and someone else doing...

Could you at least draw a picture if you can't post any real pics of what this guy made? I don't want to pass judgement on something without knowing more about it. But without knowing more about it, I don't really see why anything added the e-brake handle would be needed. In it's current...

So it's just an e-brake handle? Maybe it's just me, but I don't see the point. The stock e-brake is in the perfect location and works awesome. Is this just a looks pretty part? Is it just a cover or an add-on to the stock handle?

Spring rates aren't what really determine ride quality. The damper has a much greater effect on that. I run 1000lb/in front spring and 600lb/in rear springs and it rides very nice because of the valving I run on the dampers. So you can get away with stiffer rates and still have a good ride...

So what sizes are you running?

It could be that you bought the cheapest thing that you could find on ebay. Or it could be that you need to be a lot more descriptive for me to be able to give you any idea on what's wrong. What kind of click? Where is it coming from? Etc?

So you want more rear camber? Or you want to know how to get more rear camber? Or you want to know if you should run more rear camber? You can adjust rear camber with the rear lower arms. There are eccentric bolts that will allow you to push out the rear wheels a little. I don't know...

I don't think anyone is making inners or outers just yet. It's on my long list of suspension parts to design and I would like to have something together soon. But for now, I do sell steering spacers which will increase the crappy angle these things have stock. So if you're drifting, I...

Are you talking kinematics with the ground link? If so, the shock tower brace has nothing to do with that. The front suspension bolts to the crossmember which attaches to the chassis with rubber bushings. So if you're worried about suspension kinematic flex, replacing those bushings would do...

IJ knows about your balls?

With TEMS, it seems that your only option is Illumina II's or new stock TEMS dampers if you can still get them. And then everything else is the same as non-tems shocks in terms of springs and what you can do there.

-2/3* is nothing. That would be fine for your setup if you can get the other side to be the same. Stock specs are for not much camber at all, it's low, but it's also in the TSRM, so you can find it there. And does he mean that the adjustment is all the way in? Like towards the center of...