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Yeah, less unsprung weight/inertia. Although it's really not that much of a difference if you're using a good shock. Also usually sucks for packaging on a street car. And you can only do it with pressurized shocks. The cheaper twin tube shocks that aren't pressurized will not work. But...

Why is everyone being such babies about rolling fenders? If you want to fit bigger wheels and you want the car to look cool, it's required. Complaining about this is like complaining that you have to run an aftermarket intercooler to make more power. Just deal with it. And I'm pretty...

But what width wheels? I'm not seeing that anywhere. If they're less than 10s, +35 is a real conservative offset and 255 should have no problem fitting. But I don't really know anything about lowering springs or stock style shocks and can't remember what they look like. But can you turn...

Depends on a lot. There is no best, they need to match the rest of the car. So what springs, dampers, weight, use, etc? And I thought I made a thread in here with the results to the sway bar testing I did. That would be a good place to look. Posting diameters doesn't mean anything.

I use normal open ended lug nuts.

IJ, doesn't your car weigh like 2 tons? I don't think you have to get too serious to get it down a little.

Yeah, those look like the veilsides. And they look good on a lot of cars. There's a guy around here that has them on his mk4 and they look pretty sweet. But if they fit like that on the skyline, you're never going to fit them on a supra without a lot of body work.

But cheap and easy are two of my favorite words. And rewiring the car is a cheap and easy way to lose some weight. There's also a ton of other cheap and easy ways to lose weight with a supra. But not everything is cheap and easy. Some things shouldn't be cheap and easy, they're going to hard...

You need something to connect the frame rails in the front. Something needs to tie them together. The subframe does connect them, but it is isolated from the frame rails because of the bushings. And you also have the spring/shock loads going into the chassis. So you do need something...

You could cut it out and replace it with a lighter rad support. That would be your best bet, I've been thinking about doing this myself. A tubular fabbed piece could end up being lighter and stronger than the stamped piece. But then I don't know how heavy that piece is. Surprisingly the mk3...

I don't think custom springs is the way to go. There's just no point really. OE fitment dampers are limiting. You can do some stuff with them and adding sleeves to some of the better ones so you can use a good 2.5" ID coil spring is also an option. But they still aren't the best option...

Use the something like 0.025 aluminum sheet. Just make mounts so you can bolt it or fasten it some how to the chassis.

I heard that was a million page thread somewhere on this forum that has tons of different wheel/tire setups on mk3 supras. I bet you could find the info in there.

Is that front subframe bent or is it just my eyes?

Why don't you just post the ones for the supra?

I just did a simple remove and replace. Remove: replace:

You should post the curves. I want to see them. And it's not that you're looking for anything special, you're just looking for a certain amount of damping force. This is based on weight, spring rate, natural frequency, design intent, tires, etc. So there's no simple answer besides reading...

It's all in the TSRM.

If it's stock, it's gone.

Welding a diff is not bad at all. It's actually pretty awesome. It's definitely not the best way, but it's a cheap and easy fix to a problem. It's not hard to drive on the street, it's not much worse than a 2-way clutch type. So as long as you know how to drive, you shoudn't have any...