Weld it. Just do it.
Unless you have the money to spend, then get a 2-way.
But if you don't want to spend the money, just weld it. And make sure it's welded well or it could break.
And it's not that bad to drive on the street. If you know how to drive a car, it won't be any problem...
Jack, I wasn't saying you guys didn't like Ronnie's stuff. But I think I might have actually read Poodle's statement wrong. If he did mean, the Ronnie stuff is good even though it's not made in the states, then ignore what I said.
Good one. You got me there.
The cars going to suck without suspension work. Face it. This is why everyone thinks that supras can't drift. It's not because they can't, it's because people don't do it right.
My brother's car with a stock 7m with the turbo on the way out, my steering...
I don't know how A1's quality is now. But one of my good friends is the one who designed their arms originally and they were tested on another friend's car.
They use decent bearings, probably FK quality, not as good as Aurora and definitely not as good as New Hampshire, but much better...
Depends how much you want to spend and how much work you want to do. There's tons of companies that make them.
Some will work with a normal aftermarket hub and go between the hub and steering wheel. Check with the vendors on here and see what they sell. But there's Works Bell, L2, NRG...
Well there's not even talk of what he's going to do for suspension besides a passing mention of maybe doing coilovers.
The engine and taking weight out of the car are good things to do, but if you don't do suspension, diff and steering stuff, the car is going to suck to drift.
What's with all these "drift" car builds with nothing needed for drifting.
Please remove anything related to drifting from your thread title until you get coilovers, slam the car and put sweet wheels on...at a minimum.
I'm totally not paying a deposit to test this sway bar.
But everyone else, I appreciate the comments/support.
I could test this bar, but it's probably not even worth it. I would rather finish off the list with the ST bars which I still haven't got my hands on. But something like this...
If you don't do a full smooth underbody, you're only getting part of the effects of a rear diffuser.
And if you want to make a mold for it and make it out of fiberglass, you're probably better off doing it out of foam first. And then making a mold from that.
But if you're just trying to...
I don't have the measurements written down. Maybe someone else does. I think I have some of this stuff lying around, so I'll try and get them measured this weekend if no one posts anything.
Tim
Don't cut corners, you'll hate it. Go through the dash. There are ways you could keep it in front of the dash and it still be legal, but it compromises too many things and just sucks in general.
But you also don't need to take everything out behind the dash. But I would suggest pulling the...
All I see is what looks like lowering springs on painted stock shocks.
So what diff are you using?
And stock steering is not enough to even have fun with. You run out of angle so quickly that it sucks.
And your car is way too high to be considered a drift car.
That's a different car. I did Rob's (Racerpage's) cage a while ago. When you were here, we had just gotten the blue one and were getting ready to throw out the white one.
But to answer the other question in the thread. Rob's car is a drift car. The tubing is 1.75x0.120 wall. It will...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.